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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
Sport
Pablo Iglesias Maurer in Mexico City

‘Not in our best moment’: strikes and tension temper World Cup buzz in Mexico City

Police stand outside of the Estadio Azteca ahead of Thursday’s World Cup opener
Police stand outside the Estadio Azteca, renamed the Estadio Ciudad de México for the World Cup, ahead of Thursday’s tournament opener. Photograph: Pablo Iglesias Maurer/The Guardian

Mexico City’s Plaza de la Constitución sits in the middle of the city’s historic center and has been a gathering place since Aztec times. Nobody here calls it by its formal name, referring to it instead as the Zócalo. Framed by centuries-old cathedrals and government buildings, it is one of the largest city squares on Earth, a monument to Mexico’s colonial past and cosmopolitan present.

It is also a block southwest of the Templo Mayor, a place Aztec mythology referred to as the center of the universe. In more recent times, Fifa has done its best to make the plaza the center of the footballing universe. Mexico City is preparing to host the opening match of the 2026 World Cup, and the Zócalo has been converted into the city’s fan festival. A massive video screen dwarfs almost everything else in the plaza.

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