A new plant-based Sri Lankan-inspired dining concept has opened in Dulwich, bringing hoppers, jackfruit curry, and “mutton-less rolls” to Lordship Lane.
Trinco is the work of Vibushan Thirukumar, whose family are first-generation refugees and who moved to the UK during the Sri Lankan civil war.
Thirukumar launched Trinco last last month as a “community focused, sustainable restaurant.” It is housed within the co-working and wellness hub Oru Space, which he co-founded with business partner Paul Nelmes three years ago.
The restaurant pays homage to his hometown of Trincomalee, and dishes are modern interpretations of what he ate as a child.
“Between day shifts and night shifts, we had a window of 9-10pm to see our amma,” said Thirukumar. Amma is Tamil for mother.
“My dad would collect her from the Royal Mail sorting office, we’d have dinner together, and then she’d head back to work.
“It was all we knew so it was pure joy — a late dinner of amazing food with our amma.
“[When we moved to the UK] food was what we clung on to as access to our heritage and culture — this quality of taste, sense of comfort and fulfilment is something that feels harder to achieve than it should be.”
Trinco works as an extension of Oru Space, which was established as an “inclusive, accessible” community and hosts exercise classes, supper clubs, live music, exhibitions, and other events.
The new restaurant focuses on vegan and vegetarian dining rooted in Tamil culture, and Thirukumar added that it “strives for innovation as authenticity feels somewhat unachievable when thousands of miles away.”
On the menu are dishes such as biryani, aubergine curry, and okra fries, none of which are priced higher than £7. A new cocktail list is also being put together and there is a wine list from Modal Wines.
In charge of the kitchen are head chef Izabela Kobylarz and pastry chef Maya Berthou. Three members of the kitchen team are refugees who had never secured paid work before joining Oru.
“Accessibility and environmentalism are huge motivations for the purpose of Oru, with social impact integrated into all operations of the company,” Thirukumar explained.
“With Trinco, we have kept prices as low as possible without sacrificing quality, and are committed to being a space that is inclusive — being aware of the increased hostility towards refugees in the UK.”
Trinco is open on Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays from 7pm at 20-22 Lordship Lane, SE22 8HN. For more information, visit trinco.restaurant.
