When Daniel Lee’s time at the helm of Bottega Veneta came to an abrupt end in November 2021, his departure left some pretty big puddle boots to fill.
In less than four years the British designer had successfully repositioned the staid Italian leather goods house as a key player in the hype-worthy luxury space. He jumbo-sized the brand’s signature woven intrecciato leather into cult Insta-catnip accessories, won all sorts of awards and created a widespread obsession for a particular zingy shade of apple green.
Rather than hire externally, Bottega replaced him with someone who had been present for all of those achievements – and was no doubt a driving force behind many of them – Matthiue Blazy, Lee’s second in-command.
Blazy, who has trained under Phoebe Philo, Raf Simons and Calvin Klein, showed his debut collection as Bottega Veneta’s creative director in Milan last night, and it was cool, confident and effortlessly understated – which was impressive given the massive expectations.
Rather than sweat about creating the next sell-out It bag or viral hue, as many might have done in his position, Blazy took things back to basics and instead approached his task by asking the fundamental question: What makes Bottega Bottega?
“Bottega Veneta is in essence pragmatic because it is a leather goods company. Because it specialises in bags it is about movement, of going somewhere,” said Blazy in his notes. “It is style over fashion in its timelessness. That is part of its quiet power.”
And certainly Blazy’s AW22 offering exuded a soft but undeniable sway, through a wardrobe of slick staples, denim and everyday wear that had been elevated at the hands of Bottega’s expert ateliers.
The denim jeans worn with a white tank in the first look were, for example, actually made from nubuck leather photo-printed to look like denim, while the slouchy intrecciato bags had been woven into being without the use of a single stitch; a heritage of leatherworking expertise given modern purpose.
Amongst the excellent denim, leather cords and trench coats, utilitarian peacoats and silk slip dresses, there were some more flamboyant items. Flared leather midi skirts in lilac and buttercup yellow that exploded with fringed leather swishing with every step, a sequinned white and green maxi dress with a black dotted kiwi-like pattern and a white belted faux fur coat embellished with vast golden pebbles all catered to the thirst for post-pandemic party pieces. Semi-sheer sequinned strappy minis with matching opera gloves worn with over-the-knee metallic boots were dance floor-destined.
Thigh-high boots were standout among the footwear, and looked particularly good in black paired with a white borrowed-from-the-boyfriend shirt dress and in a flat bottle green mens iteration, worn under a black pea coat with black gloves.
Several models clutched giant squidgy leather pillow bags that one suspects could have an influencer appeal akin to some of Lee’s standout arm candy. Perhaps the show guests, each of whom were sat on one and encouraged to take it home post-show, will be among the first to post.
