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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
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Lauren O'Neill

‘Neighbourhood restaurants’ – really? These Instagrammable impostors are nothing of the sort

Golborne Road in Notting Hill, west London, home to Portuguese and Moroccan immigrant communities – and a ‘neighbourhood restaurant’ controversy.
Golborne Road in Notting Hill, west London, home to Portuguese and Moroccan immigrant communities – and a ‘neighbourhood restaurant’ controversy. Photograph: Peter Forsberg/Alamy

What makes a neighbourhood restaurant? The phrase itself is evocative, bringing to mind the types of local trattorias or ocakbaşları or tavernas that punters return to regularly. The definition might vary from person to person, but surely a neighbourhood restaurant is defined by some combination of its longevity in the community, an accessible feel and affordable prices.

Over the past six months, though, I have seen the “neighbourhood restaurant” label deployed constantly in PR emails previewing a very different sort of establishment. The aim, I imagine, is to evoke a sense of cosiness and community – but there’s something off about it.

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