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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Alicia Miller

My KitchenAid artisan mixer makes daunting kitchen tasks ‘feel like a breeze’

KitchenAid says the 5.6l artisan can ‘take it all on’ – I put that claim to the full test - (Alicia Miller/The Independent)

If you’ve ever baked so much as a cupcake, you’ve probably heard of – and maybe even dreamed of owning – a KitchenAid stand mixer. The machine’s iconic figure, first crafted more than a hundred years ago in far-flung Ohio, has appeared on our screens in the Great British Bake Off and Saturday Kitchen, and is a much-lusted-after countertop centrepiece for home bakers everywhere. It’s basically the Chanel handbag of stand mixers.

And just like a Chanel handbag, it doesn’t come cheap. In fact, depending on the model you choose, you might not even get much change out of £1,000 when making your pick. So I thought I’d see if these machines were really worth the hefty price tag, testing out a recently launched model – the 5.6l artisan, which currently retails at £449.40 – and putting it through its paces in every way I could think of. Read on to see if I think it’s worth the investment.

Read more: Best stand mixers to elevate your at-home baking

How I tested

I tested a number of attachments like the meat grinding one (Alicia Miller/The Independent)

KitchenAid says the 5.6l artisan can ‘take it all on’ and I read that as a challenge. As well as testing the included whisk, paddle and dough hooks to make classic bakes such as cakes and brownies, I put a number of supplementary attachments through their paces to see if this machine was really the versatile kitchen worker it claims to be. I made pasta using the dedicated pasta maker, ice cream with the ice cream bowl, and ground meat with the sausage-making attachment, as well as chopped vegetables for other dishes.

All tests were completed in the same home kitchen over a period of several weeks to ensure consistency. You can read more about my in-depth testing process at the end of this review.

Read more: Best hand mixers for baking and cooking up a storm

KitchenAid artisan stand mixer 5.6L

Rating: 4.5/5

Size: 419mm x 287mm x 372mm

Weight: 13kg

Motor: 375W

Colourways: Empire red, pistachio, matte black, almond cream

Why we love it

  • Built to last
  • Strong motor can tackle meat grinding, ice cream making and pasta rolling as well as mixing
  • Beautiful, timeless design

Take note

  • Expensive
  • Additional attachments come at extra cost
  • Not suitable for very small mixes

What is the KitchenAid artisan 5.6l?

So well-recognised is the KitchenAid stand mixer that many people think it’s just one machine. But in fact, there are a range of extremely similar-looking machine designs, with slightly different sizes, price points, operating styles, functionality and capacity (ranging from a compact 3l to a whopping 6.9l).

The KitchenAid artisan 5.6l, which sits within the premium artisan range, is designed more for serious cooks than occasional bakers. It’s KitchenAid’s most powerful home bowl mixer, with a stronger motor than the classic model. Outfitted with 11 speeds for micro-adjustment of every mix and a bowl-lift design that provides for greater stability when you’re tackling heavy doughs or batters, it’s built to tackle everything you can throw at it.

Having worked frequently with KitchenAid devices in the past, when I unpacked the machine I immediately noticed that it was heavier, taller and with a larger countertop footprint than many of the other models I’d tried previously. However, the handy bowl-lift function – in contrast to the classic KitchenAid tilt-back head – meant that I didn’t have to shimmy the machine away from the wall each time I used it. This is a pro for anyone with tight kitchen counter space, though it’s worth noting you’ll still want to have extra space on hand for storing any add-on attachments. You’ll also want to position the machine by a plug in the kitchen, as I found that lugging the mixer (13kg) around every time I used it to be a bit of a workout.

Quality and looks

Part of the reason KitchenAid stand mixers remain popular is that they are as beautiful as they are functional. While sticking with the iconic retro shape that has long defined the brand, the 5.6l artisan has the addition of some ultra-curvaceous edges, making it a perfect partner for other timeless kitchen kit.

Whereas some KitchenAid machines are available in a kaleidoscope of colours, the 5.6l artisan is kept to a tight edit of versatile basics: fiery empire red, understated pistachio, chic matte black and meringue-like almond cream. The polished exterior contrasts smartly with chrome detailing and the stainless steel bowl, and I found every last inch to be straightforward and simple to wipe clean – heaven-sent after a marathon cooking session.

The machines come in a kaleidoscope of fun colours (Alicia Miller/The Independent)

Some stand mixers try to incorporate fancy dials, touch screens or digital displays but KitchenAid sticks to the tried and tested over unnecessary innovation. One simple speed dial on the lefthand side, numbered from 0 to 10, is easy to flick with one hand if you’re juggling ingredients, and feels intuitive to use. Simply pull it forward for added speed or kick it back to ease things up.

The engine in the artisan is a powerful 375W, giving what KitchenAid describes as about 1.5 times as much power in the bowl in comparison with the classic model. This combines with KitchenAid’s signature ‘planetary action’ where the attachment and shaft rotate in opposite directions, allowing for a total of 67 touch points on the bowl – in short, ensuring that whatever you’re mixing is thoroughly combined with nothing left sticking to the side.

A lifelong baking companion

What sells KitchenAid isn’t only its looks and power but its longevity. Anecdotally many users are known to keep their machines for decades; my mother, for example, has been using hers reliably for upwards of 25 years.

Given the machine’s reputation for being a baking companion, I kicked off my stand mixer testing with a thorough examination of the machine’s main baking functions, using the attachments that come as standard with the machine. I whipped up all the classics: cookies, using a low-power setting and the padel to emulate hand-mixing and create a smooth, thick batter. I prepared an ethereal cake and meringue-based icing using the whisk attachment. And a loaf of sourdough bread, kneaded with the dough hook. While KitchenAid does supply recipes to complement its stand mixers, I decided to go with some of my own favourites to ensure impartiality.

Read more: Best hand mixers for baking and cooking up a storm

The machine delivered at every turn – particularly when it came to the bread, which I often find boring and tiring to knead by hand. The consistency was better, it rose more evenly and baked perfectly once I eventually slotted it into the oven.

My only niggle – and it’s a minor one, as the 5.6l artisan is plugged as a larger-batch machine – is that I found making small amounts of anything to be somewhat impractical, with unnecessary washing up. For example, when I tried to beat a single egg, the whisk barely touched it. However, if you’re making anything for a family or a larger crowd it’s all breezy; the machine can handle kneading up to 3.7kg of bread dough in one go, for example.

If you’re a super-keen bread baker it’s worth noting one other thing. KitchenAid does sell a bread baking bowl attachment (£123.47, Amazon.co.uk) where you can transport your mixed loaf straight from mixer to oven, making the process as easy as it possibly can be. However, at 4.7l capacity, it sadly isn’t compatible with the 5.6l artisan model.

KitchenAid 5.6l Artisan optional attachments

Not everyone is a passionate baker who can justify the kitchen counter space required for a big stand mixer – never mind one that comes at a hefty price point. Which is precisely why the artisan machine is marketed not only as a baking companion but a multi-use kitchen workhorse that can be transformed for all kinds of cooks.

The machine’s motor sits in its bulky head, which can be accessed by a removable front dial – enabling you to attach a range of powered attachments to aid with meal prep. These attachments range from shave ice and pasta makers to sausage stuffers and food processors. I tested four of them: the 3-in-1 metal pasta attachment (£199, Amazon.co.uk), the meat grinder and sausage stuffer set (£99.61, Amazon.co.uk), ice cream maker (£94.63, Amazon.co.uk) and spiralizer (£79.49, Amazon.co.uk).

Meat grinder and sausage stuffer set

As well as meat, this attachment can also cut up veg and make breadcrumbs (Alicia Miller/The Independent)

If you’re a cheffy type, this is the attachment that might just convince you to invest in a KitchenAid. While there are other multi-purpose stand mixers on the market, not all have the motor power required to grind through tough meats, fish or cheeses, enabling you to make everything from your own homemade sausages to bespoke burger patties.

Made from sturdy metal and with three different grinding plates – ranging from fine to coarse – this grinder was easy to use, even on my first go. As I eased the meat down the chute using a plastic pusher utensil, the motor and cutting disc sliced through my chilled beef shank as if it was butter.

The attachment also comes with two plastic sausage stuffing tubes, which enables you to guide freshly ground meat or filling into casing before tying and cooking.

If you’re an avid cook but don’t envision needing to grind your own meat all that often, it’s also helpful to know that this attachment can take on making baby food; finely segmenting veg for soups and stews; and grinding up dried herbs or homemade breadcrumbs made from leftover loaves.

3-in-1 metal pasta attachment

The pasta was easy to make with the attachment – to my surprise (Alicia Miller/The Independent)

I’ve always wanted to make my own pasta but assumed that it would be an immense faff, and require a degree of technical precision that I simply did not have. So it was with a degree of trepidation that I approached testing the 3-in-1 metal pasta attachment.

Turns out, it was even easier to use than the meat grinder. I began by using a KitchenAid recipe for pasta dough, containing simply eggs and ‘00’ flour. Using the padel attachment, I beat the flour and eggs together into a ball, then used the dough hook to knead it for two minutes. The resulting dough was perfect.

Because the 3-in-1 attachment is just one piece, all I had to do was stick it onto the motor head and I was in business. I used one side to roll out my dough over a few stages, starting from the thickest setting (1) and moving onwards until it was paper thin. Then I used the built-in cutters to make a mix of fine spaghetti and chunkier fettuccine.

Compared with manual pasta machines (or hand-rolling), which require more work, time and accuracy, this was so simple that I found myself swearing I’d make homemade pasta on a regular basis.

Cleaning the attachment felt a bit tricky at first, as you’re not meant to submerge it in water; on the night I made the pasta, I spent more time than I’d like to admit picking at bits of dough stuck in the spaghetti press. But the next day, when it had all dried, it came off no-problem with the included cleaning brush; which, to be fair, is exactly how KitchenAid advises you to care for it.

If I had one complaint, it would be that I would have liked a few more options of different pasta shapes to work with. But I suppose that’s exactly what the additional pasta press - 6 shapes (£198, Kitchenaid.co.uk) attachment is for.

Spiralizer

I’m not sure if I’d recommend splashing out on the spiralizer attachment (Alicia Miller/The Independent)

The spiralizer attachment is designed to create ribbons or spirals of vegetables such as carrots or courgette, ideal as a replacement for pasta noodles in healthy dishes or for adding a burst of colour and texture.

Just like the base machine, KitchenAid supplementary attachments aren’t cheap, and this was one add-on I wasn’t quite sure I’d spend my money on. Not only was it fiddly to set up on the machine, with several parts and a less-intuitive structure, but I found that it didn’t work as well as I would have liked. I kept having to cut my carrots and courgettes to size to make them fit right, and more than once the pieces popped off the holder, which was meant to keep them in place. Perhaps if I had been spiralizing for an army it would have saved time, but the price – coupled with the faff of washing up – didn’t feel worth it for a swirl or two of carrot. I’ll stick to my old trusty £20 hand spiralizer (£19.95, Aolcookshop.co.uk) for now.

Ice cream maker

The ice cream was smooth and thick (Alicia Miller/The Independent)

Did you know that pretty much every store-bought ice cream is ultra-processed, stuffed with emulsifiers and stabilisers? If that’s a fact that bothers you, this is perhaps the most useful KitchenAid attachment of all – an ice cream maker that lets you make smooth, velvety and entirely natural frozen desserts in a jiffy.

The idea is that you keep the special base bowl in the freezer at all times, and then in a flash you can pour in a homemade ice cream mix – or even some fresh yoghurt, or custard – and using the special attached dasher churn it to perfection.

I made mine the lazy way by pouring some Greek yoghurt and honey into the frozen bowl, and leaving it to churn for just a few minutes, until it reached a silky state. I was impressed not only in how quickly it chilled but also how consistent and luxurious the texture felt, like it had come from a proper ice cream machine.

Both the bowl and paddle were easy to clean and use. The biggest thing is just juggling finding enough room in my freezer to accommodate the 1.9l frozen bowl 24/7, so it’s on hand whenever I have an ice cream craving. But compared with how much space I’d need to store a dedicated ice cream maker, that’s hardly a serious problem.

The KitchenAid 5.6l artisan: What I loved

With its good looks, top-notch performance and solid quality – which feels built to last – there was a lot I loved about the KitchenAid 5.5l artisan. It is powerful yet not too noisy; easy to clean and straightforward to use; and can be useful in the kitchen in many ways beyond its classic stand mixer design.

While they do come at an additional cost, I was particularly impressed with the variety of attachments on offer and how so many of them made daunting kitchen preparations – from pasta to ice cream – feel like a breeze. I also liked that these attachments were comparatively small compared with dedicated machines and they enable you to pack more into your kitchen square footage.

The KitchenAid 5.6l artisan: What could have been better

We couldn’t fault much about the machine’s overall functionality. It is noticeably heavy and does take up a chunk of countertop space, but you’d expect that from a robust mixer of this capacity. Sometimes clipping the base bowl in took a bit of elbow grease but that’s also part of the point – it keeps it firmly locked in place when you’re kneading heavy doughs.

The only attachment that I tested and didn’t love was the spiralizer. Given the high price point, I think you can probably do just as well with a small, dedicated, hand-held machine.

Buy now £749, Kitchenaid.co.uk

Is the KitchenAid 5.6l artisan worth it?

If you’re more than just an occasional cake-baker, the KitchenAid 5.6l is a solid investment. It can be used in all sorts of meal preparations, including ice cream making, pasta making and even sausage stuffing. However, when deciding if it’s the right machine for you, you’ll want to consider the base cost, as well as the added cost of any desired attachments, to see if it makes financial sense.

It’s worth keeping in mind that, anecdotally, many users keep hold of their KitchenAid machines for decades and the machine comes with a five-year warranty plus 15 years of repairability. So it could be helpful to see it as an investment for a lifetime – or, at least, a large chunk of one.

How the KitchenAid 5.6l was tested

I tested this model of KitchenAid out for several weeks, while keeping in mind the following criteria:

Why you can trust IndyBest reviews

Alicia Miller is an award-winning travel and food writer who has tested everything from the best cast iron skillets to the best stand mixers for IndyBest. Her kitchen product knowledge is second to none, so you can trust that in her reviews, Alicia will always share her honest opinions and will only recommend products she believes are worth your money.

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