Of all the foodstuffs I put past my lips in 2022, high-street chain Wagamama fed me something that was probably the most controversial. Have you tried its vegan fake egg, no-duck donburi? The one with the replica egg made of coconut milk and sriracha mayonnaise? Is the mere mention of this “egg” causing a vein in your neck to throb? Like Piers Morgan’s incandescence at Greggs’ vegan sausage roll, which was devoid of pig cruelty, but still harming him?
If you’re trying Veganuary for the first time this year, you’ve come at an interesting time. British hospitality’s approach to vegetarians and vegans has pivoted 180 degrees since the bad old days of the pub-grub microwaved veggie lasagne made with a sachet of Batchelors Beanfeast that tasted like yeasty gravel. The change has been seismic: meat-free diets are these days catered for everywhere I go, from fine dining and fancy to KFC’s vegan Quorn patty “coated in their 11 famous herbs and spices”.
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