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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Lauren Cochrane

‘More of an attitude’: how 1985’s Buffalo look changed fashion for ever

Naomi Campbell and Felix Howard, in Buffalo style, 1985
Naomi Campbell and Felix Howard, in Buffalo style, 1985. Composite: Jamie Morgan

Fashion’s historic references come and go. Currently, they might include Harrison Ford in shorts in the 1970s and 90s Oasis. But there are also some that are canon – such as Buffalo, the look masterminded by stylist Ray Petri and photographer Jamie Morgan in the mid-80s.

Shaped largely through fashion shoots for the Face magazine, the duo created a look that reflected the culture and creativity of London at the time, but gave it the classy and cinematic feel of a Marlon Brando portrait or a shot by Henri Cartier-Bresson. This beautifully lit black-and-white photography of street-cast models and people – including a then-unknown Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Neneh Cherry and Nick Kamen, who later went on to star in Levi’s famous 1985 launderette advert – went on to shape both fashion photography and fashion.

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