On first glance, the glassy, sculpted Milk Beach Soho doesn’t belong in its namesake neighbourhood. London’s Sohophiles come here for local institution pubs, indie shops and ancient, often unchanged restaurants, alongside the odd new hole-in-the-wall bistro or wine bar hoping to make it among the area’s heroes. In actual fact, Milk Beach – London’s second outpost of this swanky Aussie concept – is tucked slightly away from Soho’s regal old grid, reached through a curious mini-archway on Greek Street.
When you do duck under, there’s an Alice in Wonderland-style shift in perspective: the neat, low-rise vintage streets give way to a towering, hyper-modern courtyard. At one side is the restaurant’s sculpted glass facade, trimmed with mermaid-scale turquoise tiling, plus chic patio seating slung with blankets. Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Soho anymore.
