Following on from London Fashion Week, the shows at Milan Fashion Week are underway, ready to showcase the Spring/Summer 2025 collections from our favourite Italian houses.
The Marie Claire team is on the ground, bringing you all the highlights from the catwalks – and a sneak peek of next season's trends.
Etro
Florals for spring are generally thought of as the opposite of groundbreaking, but in Marco De Vincenzo's hands, they told a compelling story.
Etro's latest offering featured intarsia knits with giant blooms, intricately embroidered dresses with peekaboo panels, and the house's flower-printed silks, crafted into ruffle-front dresses, fishtail skirts and '70s-style shirts.
Roberto Cavalli
This was the first Roberto Cavalli show since the designer's passing, and it was suitably noteworthy. Fausto Puglisi tapped supermodels Eva Herzigova, Mariacarla Boscono, Alek Wek, Isabeli Fontana, Joan Smalls, Karen Elson, and Natasha Poly to model seven killer evening dresses in the show's finale. In black leather and zebra-striped chiffon, with thigh-high splits and frothy ruffles, these frocks exemplified the unabashed sexiness the house of known for.
There were also enough sleek looks in cream to satisfy even the most print-averse, accessorised with futuristic, wrap-around shades and ankle-strap mules. Think form-fitting mini dresses with flowing maxi coats and slouchy suit trousers with a navel-baring jacket.
No. 21
When moodboarding for No. 21's Spring/Summer '25 show, Creative Director Alessandro Dell'Acqua looked at photographs of '60s music groupies by Karlheinz Weinberger.
The result was an army of very chic modettes in hand-sequinned dresses, boxy jackets and pencil skirts, all styled with pointed slingback and ballet flats. A coral, duchesse-satin dress coat is now firmly on my wish list, along with the extra-long stripy scarves.
Fendi
Creative Director Kim Jones kicked off proceedings with a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that has me dreaming of Spring already. One thing is certain: sheer pieces aren't going anywhere. From the art deco-inspired, drop-waist sheer dresses to the bejewelled tops, sheer trousers and embroidered pencil skirts, sheer pieces accounted for half of the looks modelled on the catwalk. Elsewhere, pops of icy blue punctuated a subdued colour palette of beige, white and black, giving shirts and tailoring a fresh twist for Spring. An asymmetric scarf dress layered over satin trousers was a particular highlight.
Jil Sander
At Jil Sander, Creative Directors Lucie and Luke Meier created a collection that was strong and defiant – a reflection of how we want to dress in the current climate.
Frills and frippery were eschewed for sleek, boxy silhouettes and a whole lot of black and white. Loud pops of colour were delivered via graphic prints featuring neon lights, cars and motel rooms, taken from the photos of Greg Girard.
It was all gloriously wearable, and I can't quite get the starchy high-neck top and car-print pencil skirt look off my mind.
Alberta Ferretti
There's no denying Alberta Ferretti is queen of the diaphanous, gorgeously feminine chiffon dress – a piece that so many designers are trying their hand at as we find outside in the midst of a boho revival. Rather than rebel, the designer leant into what she does best with a collection of beautifully wispy dresses in white, petrol-blue and marigold-orange. And we're so glad she did.
For daytime, Ferretti turned to crisp cottons, crafting perfect shirt dresses and flirty, bubble-hem frocks that were styled with strappy flats. There were some lovely, loosely-tailored coords, too – a buttermilk-and-white striped short suit, and a slouchy shirt-and-trouser set in off-white. One wouldn't have trouble finding an opportunity to wear any of these looks.
