Here we are again at Anna Wintour’s annual first Monday in May fundraiser where the word fashion-tainment comes into glorious technicolour. This year’s theme fell easier on the eye than previous incarnations — no Jared Leto as cat — although there were scattered animalistic nods — see Lana del Ray’s McQueen Hoof boots for one. The exhibition — which will run at The Costume Institute at New York’s Met Museum — is entitled Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion — showcases the abundance of fashion treasure from the museum’s own archive.
However for the night itself, Wintour issued a dress code edict of The Garden of Time. On the surface, many quips surrounding “florals for spring?” the iconic, much-memed line from her alter-ego Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada. And yet. The title comes via a J. G. Ballard short story, in which a count and his wife stave off an attack from the proletariat by throwing flowers from their garden at them. Destroying the earth to save oneself? A compelling analysis of the fashion industry by anyone’s standard.
Wintour had earlier protected her party from its own assault from the masses, as the newly assembled Condé Nast Union stood down from their threats to picket and boycott (and more crushingly — go on content-producing strike for the biggest traffic-driver of the year) the event after a final-hour successful negotiation.
And so to the prettily draped steps of the Met, covered not in a red carpet, but a dappled green one, offering a verdant backdrop to the looks which ranged from blooming English garden in straightforward florals — Ayo Edibiri in Loewe, Amanda Seyfriend in Prada, Sydney Sweeney in Miu Miu (great dress, weird wig) — to more sinister Brothers Grimm, dark forest frights: Dua Lipa in Marc Jacobs, Cardi B in Windowsen and those who looked like they’d lost their clothes on the back off Lana Del Ray’s McQueen antlers — see Emily Ratajkowski in spangly Versace, Rita Ora in Marni and FKA Twigs in Stella McCartney.
The naked dressing trend then lingers on with little in the way of shock value left; one could however look to Kendall Jenner — looking sensational in archive Givenchy by Alexander McQueen — as a study in how to flash-flesh elegantly rather than full-blown tits and ass on display.
Wintour herself (more often in Chanel or Prada) wore a Loewe coat with embellished florals — which is a prime anointing from fashion’s very own queen for the Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who had a very good night dressing Ariana Grande, Taylor Russell, Josh O’Connor, Ambika Mod, Jaime Dornan and Mike Faist.
Daniel Lee’s Burberry also held up the taste levels — his looks for British Vogue’s Chioma Nnadi, Jodie Turner-Smith and Naomi Campbell were quite beautiful, and showed off a level of subtlety which hasn’t always been present on his catwalks. Perhaps the red carpet is more of a natural home for him than previously thought.
Special mention should go to Lauren Sánchez, Jeff Bezos’s plucky fiancé who took on her first Met with aplomb in Oscar de la Renta — with a full skirt which looked like a smashed mirror of florals. Killing off the wicked witch?
Zac Posen, now heading up Gap, showed just what happens when a designer previously best known for corsetry and mega-gowns discovers denim: Da'Vine Joy Randolph in a custom look which is probably not coming to a mall near you anytime soon.
Best Brits included Phoebe Dynevor who was sweet in pink Victoria Beckham (no Mrs B herself, though) and Harris Reed who almost outdressed his date, Demi Moore, in their elaborate arrow-headpieces. But perhaps for pure heart stopping fashion with a capital F, Nicole Kidman was on major form in black and white Balenciaga, which shows what can be when you ditch the viral-gimmicks and stick to classy house codes.
And finally, a rehabilitation of sorts continues apace. John Galliano bedecked the headline stars in Maison Margiela Artisanal, Zendaya and Kim Kardashian (plus ballet-core cardy) both wore looks which took a cue from his extraordinary and much lauded January couture show. Tiny corseted waists, major fashion coup. Zendaya has worn three Galliano looks over the weekend, an archive 1998 look to the pre-Met dinner on Sunday night; and two on the Gala-carpet itself (the second a vintage Givenchy gown from 1996, when Galliano headed up the house). Wintour is clearly set on bringing his talent back front and centre under the scalding industry spotlight. Her own sleeping beauty coming back to dramatic life, if you will.
Met Gala 2024: Best dressed stars on the red carpet
