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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Rudolf Abraham

Merry and bright: Christmas markets to enjoy in Europe

Mother and son at a Christmas marketLittle boy with his mother buying tera and sweets at a Christmas market
Christmas markets are a centuries-old tradition throughout Europe. Photograph: ArtMarie/Getty Images

There’s nothing quite like Europe’s traditional Christmas markets. Christmas lights decorate snow-dusted streets and squares, stalls are clustered together selling food, drinks and gifts, ice-skating rinks make their much anticipated annual appearance, and the air is filled with the scent of mulled wine and grilled sausages, roasted chestnuts and festive cakes.

Christmas markets are part of a tradition stretching back more than 700 years in countries that once formed part of the Holy Roman Empire. One of the earliest markets on record dates to the late 13th century in Vienna, while the custom of selling small handmade toys for children at December markets, along with other Christmas gifts, appears in Germany in the 14th century. What began as an opportunity to stock up on food before Christmas, was gradually evolving into something much more.

Today, Christmas markets are a place to meet with friends and family, enjoy a warming drink in the cold winter evenings, along with delicious street food, and buy gifts ranging from handmade Christmas decorations to festive foods, traditional handicrafts and more. They’re great for families, perfect as a romantic city break, and are easily reached by rail – magical, memorable, and an essential and much-loved part of central European culture.

Here are nine Christmas market destinations that are sure to get you feeling the festive spirit …

Amsterdam, the Netherlands

What to do: Amsterdam’s main Christmas market is the Christmas Village on Museumplein, between the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum. There’s also the Funky Xmas Market at the Westergasterrein, which showcases the work of local artists and designers, the winter edition of the Pure Markt where the focus is on artisan food and products – as well as the RAI Amsterdam’s winter wonderland, Winterparadijs, not to mention the huge Christmas market in the nearby city of Haarlem. Along with your mulled wine or hot chocolate, don’t miss the obligatory festive sweet treat, oliebollen – irresistible little fried dough balls, dusted with icing sugar.

Where to stay: the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam is a stunningly beautiful hotel set alongside the Herengracht canal, within Amsterdam’s Unesco-listed canal ring. Its 93 luxurious lofts, suites and rooms are spread across six properties dating from the 17th and 18th centuries. The lofts in particular have stacks of character, with sloped ceilings and exposed wooden beams – and the hotel also boasts a two Michelin-star restaurant, Spectrum, and the Guerlain Spa. Or opt for DoubleTree by Hilton Amsterdam Centraal Station, just a five-minute walk from the main station, with fantastic views from its modern rooms of the Oosterdok (eastern dock) and the basilica of St Nicholas.

Antwerp, Belgium

What to do: Running throughout Advent – give or take a few days at either end – Antwerp’s Christmas markets are spread across several medieval squares in the old town, awash with historic architecture, and with atmosphere in spades. Start at Grote Markt, a beautiful square at the heart of the old quarter, then head to Handschoenmarkt and Groenplaats, along picturesque Suikerrui and over to the Operaplein square – the city is a suitably memorable setting for around 100 stalls, a ferris wheel, nativity scenes, and lots to eat and drink.

Where to stay: Hilton Antwerp Old Town offers comfortable rooms right on Groenplaats, next to the iconic Cathedral of Our Lady. There’s an on-site gym if you fancy burning off any festive indulgence, and the hotel welcomes pets, meaning the whole family can get in on the Christmas action.

Frankfurt, Germany

What to do: Frankfurt’s Christmas market is one of the oldest in Germany, recorded as far back as 1393. The market takes place on Römerberg, the main square, together with the adjacent St Paul’s Square and along the main quay – and more recently the Roßmarkt as well. Friedrich-Stoltze-Platz is home to Frankfurt’s LGBTQ+ Christmas market, known as Rosa Weihnacht (pink Christmas) and lit up and decorated entirely in pink.

Along with plenty of glühwein (mulled wine, which you can also find in a non-alcoholic version known as kinderpunsch) you’ll find eierpunsch (spiked eggnog) – and a mind-boggling array of food to try. Christmas markets in Germany are synonymous with gebrannte mandeln (roasted almonds), kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes, yum), schupfnudeln (potato dumplings, usually served with sauerkraut), lebkuchen (Christmas cookies), grilled mushrooms, freshly melted raclette, flammkuchen (a savoury tart), bratwurst – the list is endless. Typical of the Christmas market in Frankfurt are bethmännchen – delicious marzipan and almond pastries, of which Goethe, Germany’s most famous literary son, was apparently a big fan.

Where to stay: Hampton by Hilton Frankfurt City Centre East is conveniently located next to the Ostbahnhof station, within easy reach of Römerberg, and features a 24-hour bar for post-market nightcaps. Alternatively, Hilton Frankfurt City Centre is next to Bockenheimer Anlage park and handy for the Alter Oper concert hall. Stay in and make use of the pool, sauna and fitness centre, or enjoy views of the greenery from the hotel’s Park restaurant and terrace.

Berlin, Germany

What to do: Berlin has multiple Christmas markets – but it’s the one in Spandau that is arguably the highlight. There’s also a wonderful Christmas market on Bebelplatz, a sustainable Christmas market on Sophienstraße, and an artisan market on Mexikoplatz. The Alt-Rixdorf Christmas market on the old square of Richardplatz in the Neukölln district is also rather special – held for one weekend only, and lit by old oil lamps, all the stalls are charity-run. And don’t miss Potsdamer Platz with its epic toboggan run.

Where to stay: Hampton by Hilton Berlin City West makes a great base for exploring Berlin during the festive season, as it’s right next to the Kurfürstendamm boulevard. This famous shopping street is packed with designer stores and trendy cafes, and during Christmas time it’s aglow with festive illuminations. Hilton Berlin has some rooms that offer a view of the Norman Foster Reichstag dome and is well placed for the city’s landmarks of Checkpoint Charlie and the Brandenburg Gate. The hotel has a glass dome of its own at Restaurant Beletage, offering views of Gendarmenmarkt square’s German Cathedral, while you enjoy a buffet breakfast.

Freiburg, Germany

What to do: Freiburg’s Christmas market is heavy on interaction, which makes it especially entertaining for children. There are candle-making workshops, a children’s bakery class, the chance for kids to use a hammer and chisel to break a gemstone free, which they can keep for no extra cost, and a ferris wheel from which to take in the beautiful festive lights.

Where to stay: Hampton by Hilton Freiburg is just as great an option for families as the Christmas market. There’s a 24-hour snack hub to quell any cries of “Mum, Dad – I’m hungry!”, as well as connecting rooms so you can have a little privacy without feeling disconnected from your little ones. Plus, it’s just a 10-minute walk from the old town, which is home to the stunning Freiburg cathedral.

Heidelberg, Germany

What to do: Heidelberg is another place with a serious claim to the title of most beautiful Christmas market in Germany. The streets and squares of its old town are breathtakingly transformed, including an ice-skating rink on Karlsplatz below the sprawling ruins of Heidelberg’s vast renaissance castle. The market also keeps an eye on sustainability – traditional light bulbs have been replaced with LED throughout, consuming considerably less electricity as a result, while the ice rink has been running on green electricity since 2017.

Where to stay: Hilton Heidelberg is just a short walk from Universitätsplatz, home to the city’s largest Christmas market. A modern and stylish hotel, you’ll be staying near the riverfront, and about a 15-minute walk from the sites, shops and landmarks of Heidelberg old town.

Warsaw, Poland

What to do: Poland certainly has no shortage of Christmas markets. Head for Warsaw, where there’s a huge Christmas market on Castle Square (Place Zamkowy), at the heart of the Unesco-listed old town, while the adjacent Old Town Market Place (Rynek Starego Miasta) is transformed into an ice rink.

Where to stay: Hampton by Hilton Warsaw City Centre is close to the main railway station, and within easy reach of the old town, as well as Łazienki park, and the Palace of Culture and Science. The hotel has a fitness centre and a 24-hour snack shop.

Wrocław, Poland

What to do: Wrocław has one of the best Christmas markets in Poland, taking place on the Rynek (Market Square) and the adjacent Plac Solny (Salt Square), in the beautifully preserved old town, against a backdrop of the soaring gothic town hall and St Elizabeth’s church. Among the mouth-watering array of food to try, look out for oscypek – traditional smoked cheese from the Tatra mountains, made from sheep’s milk and served grilled, with cranberry sauce – and piernik, traditional spiced gingerbread.

Where to stay: DoubleTree by Hilton Wrocław is just a 10-minute walk from the Rynek, and offers stylish rooms set within the fluid modern architecture of the Ovo Wrocław complex, with its striking design and curved lines. Hotel guests enjoy complimentary use of the indoor pool and spa at Well Fitness, in the same building.

Kraków, Poland

What to do: Kraków’s Christmas market is held in the incomparable setting of Rynek Główny, one of the largest medieval market squares in Europe. The city’s beautifully preserved medieval core – including the former royal residence of Wawel Castle, and the historic Jewish quarter of Kazimierz – was one of the first places in the world to be declared a Unesco world heritage site, and is arguably at its most magical in winter. Kraków lies within easy reach of the mind-boggling, fairytale labyrinth of the Unesco-listed Wieliczka Salt Mine.

Where to stay: Hotel Saski Kraków, Curio Collection by Hilton offers five star boutique luxury in the heart of the old town, just one block from the main square. The rooms and suites are large and elegant, and are complemented by a restaurant and bar, on-site boutique shopping, a fitness centre, and an indoor pool. Hilton Garden Inn Kraków has connecting rooms and generously sized suites, a fitness centre, bar and restaurant, all within easy reach of the castle and the old town.

Lodz, Poland

What to do: At Christmas time, Piotrkowska Street in Lodz (one of Europe’s longest pedestrianised streets) is lined with cosy wooden huts and decked with Christmas lights. Be sure to try oscypek, as well as home-smoked cold cuts and freshly baked sourdough – and ride the ferris wheel to take in a bird’s-eye view of the celebrations while you digest all that delicious food.

Where to stay: Hampton by Hilton Lodz City Center is on Piotrkowska Street, so you’ll be just a short stroll from the festivities. Included with your stay is a free hot breakfast to start your day of Christmas revelry, and if you do find yourself Christmassed out, you can check out the nearby EC1 Lodz. A repurposed power plant, EC1 features breathtaking exhibitions and museums, including a planetarium and the National Centre for Film Culture.

Get your Christmas market visit under way by booking a stay with Hilton

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