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Louise Thomas
Editor
French designer Haider Ackermann has been named as Tom Ford’s new creative, effective immediately.
His first runway show for the house will tale place at the autumn/winter 2025 Paris Fashion Week during the final week of September.
Ackermann is known for his fluid designs blurring the boundaries between gender, culture and dress codes. Since establishing his namesake label in 2001, the designer has accrued a loyal A-list fanbase, consisting of the likes of Timothée Chalamet, Tilda Swinton, Kylie Jenner and Cate Blanchett.
Chalamet wore a Haider Ackermann crimson red jumpsuit with skinny cigarette trousers and a halter-neck scarf to the Bones and All film premiere in Venice 2022.
The backless and fluid design combined fluidity and incredibly sharp tailoring – something Ackermann has become loved for.
Tom Ford was established in 2005 following Ford’s departure from creative director at Gucci. The label quickly became famed for its provocative and sultry style which was coveted by Hollywood stars.
Ford stepped down as creative director in 2023 following its $2.8 billion sale to The Estee Lauder Companies the previous year.
Ackermann started his career with a five-month internship with John Galliano, later becoming one of the designers to succeed Galliano at Dior, after declining an offer of Martin Margiela in 2009.
Karl Lagerfeld once described him as his ideal successor at Chanel, whilst others have hailed Ackermann as the new Yves Saint-Laurent.
Ackermann’s distinct edge has always been in womenswear, exemplified by the likes of Kylie Jenner at the 2023 Met Gala, when she wore a cut-out crimson and baby-blue gown from his spring/summer haute couture collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier.
Crucially, womenswear is a category that Tom Ford’s fashion licensee, Ermenegildo Zegna Group, is desperately keen to grow.
With his legacy of fluidity and avant-garde silhouettes, it will be interesting to see if Ackermann can balance his bespoke style with the brand’s sexy and sophisticated persona at Paris Fashion Week this month.
