I first met Andrew Krausz over WhatsApp during lockdown when the north Londoner’s smoked fish and meat was a box of delights among the avalanche of otherwise average home deliveries.
“We must meet in person when I’ve built my garden folly,” Krausz messaged, referring to the kosher supper club he was assembling in his Hendon home during the pandemic. Two years later, my phone pinged to say that the folly was finally finished — and would I like to come to dinner? My first thought was: how long does it take to stick up a marquee? And do I need to wear a yarmulke?
