Despite entering the fashion industry back in 2009, there is no doubt David Koma is having a moment right now.
At each red carpet this awards season, you would be hard pushed not to spot at least one megastar sporting his designs. Take Olivia Rodrigo at the American Music Awards, Anne Hathaway at the ‘WeCrashed’ premiere or Willow Smith at the Vanity Fair Oscars afterparty.
He dressed Lady Gaga for The Graham Norton Show, Ariana Grande for the final of The Voice US and was the man behind Beyoncé’s viral neon green, sequin and feather gown, which she wore to open the Oscars ceremony this year.
At London Fashion Week, David Koma’s shows have risen up to become one of the most exciting. He has made a habit of taking over impressive, far-flung London destinations, like the Olympic London Aquatics Centre, for SS22, and the huge, brutalist Magazine London beside the O2 for his AW22 show in February. His name has become synonymous with streams of supermodels who wear his sports-chic eveningwear with swagger, and it all feels as exciting as it did when he first entered the scene.
Now he’s expanding the label. Last season he broke into footwear, offering up crystal embellished boots and heels allowing customers to get the full David Koma look. Today, he launches an athleisure capsule, taking his sporty ball gown style into an everyday line in collaboration with KORAL. Think cut out, skin tight tops, sports bras and leggings fit for the gym and beyond.
What is his trick for keeping business buzzing, and what makes him tick? We sat down with the designer to find out.
Congratulations on the Oscars dress! Can you tell us about the Beyoncé Oscar look?
It was an honour to work with Beyoncé and her incredibly talented team on such an iconic performance. Beyoncé was the first celebrity to support me, at MTV EMAs back in 2009 when she wore a dress from my graduate collection. It has been wonderful to be a part of her creative world ever since.
Your celebrity dressing and red carpet moments have gained serious momentum recently. Dua Lipa, Beyoncé, Ariana Grande and Lady Gaga. Have you noticed a spike in interest?
To be honest with you, I think we’ve been really lucky since the start of my career – being supported by incredible women in politics, music, art industries. One of the reasons is we haven’t stopped showing strong collections, putting out strong work, and being seen during tough times. All those girls you’ve mentioned have just felt like want to go out and celebrate more than ever, and we are literally perfect for that. But it’s always magical when, for example, 10 major celebrates wear David Koma in one week. When that happens, it’s pretty wild.
Are there specific celebrities that can actually help boost sales?
Of course. The brand gets much more visibility depending on the celebrity and the pick of the dress for momentum to turn into sales. For example, there was this dress that Kendall Jenner wore. A new mini dress. That sold out from the website and was re-ordered from different stores. Then we had the sequin nude dress on Hailey Bieber, and the sweatshirt Adele wore for 73 Questions to Vogue. Everyone says oh my god Adele’s sweatshirt, and it was sold out. It’s not always like that.
The other way you whip up a storm is with your mega shows. The Olympic swimming pool, Magazine London. Is doing a big spectacle important?
I’m one of those designers who always loves high speed action and seeing all the girls at the same time, getting their energy and vibe into the garments. The show itself, for me, is important. If it stands out in the fashion calendar, and the collection gets more attention, then it turns into better sales, and opens up opportunities. No one is obligated to do it in a big way, but for me it works.
Is it linked to Instagram, and the need for a show to boom online?
It’s a combination of things. We are living in a digital era and as a fashion brand, there are multiple times a year you have to make a moment that will give you not only some activity in social media, but also you have to create content for half a year in advance. It’s always a combination of things.
It must be a far cry from the industry landscape you entered in 2009, when you left Central Saint Martins. How was your time as a student?
I studied under Louise Wilson [Head of MA Fashion from 1992 – 2014], who is a huge figure in my life and career. When I was doing my BA I was completely obsessed with her, and I said if she’s not going to take me on her course – then I’m not good. But luckily she liked me. At first I was tortured by her for a year and a half, but I guess that’s what nurtured me and made me who I am now.
You were tortured!
Yeah. In a funny way. She had very strong humour and was particularly tough for those who she liked.
What did she say to you?
She called me different nicknames. Like Labrador, because I was following her to ask a question. Stuff like that.
Did it upset you?
No. I loved her and admired her. And her humour was part of the beauty of her. I graduated with a distinction and won the main prize, and we became friends and she supported me after college. She always told me believe in yourself and never give up. And her support meant really a lot to me – I would not be where I am without her. She was a really strong and talented human being and I miss her a lot.
Your last collections have majored in sports chic – and now you are launching a sportswear capsule with KORAL. Where does this interest come from?
I’m a huge sports fan. Especially tennis. I try not to ever miss Wimbledon. And my father used to play football when he was young, so he used to take me to matches. Tennis is always my priority, though. I particularly loved seeing the [Beyoncé Oscars] design on a tennis court, where the Williams sisters trained. I come from a tennis family and the sport has been my inspiration for many years, I even dedicated my SS21 collection to the sport.
And you’ve expanded the sporting references in collections since then?
Yes. Last time it was iconic British sports – I looked at rugby and football. I was analysing, investigating and researching the sports and their fans. I want to add depth and diversify to the evening wear. I want to make it more modern.
