Thanks to the unwaning mania for all things ‘90s beauty, I find myself living through the era for the second time, aesthetically speaking.
This is unequivocally good for me personally. The first time around, I was in my teens and, unlike the composed creatures I regularly see gliding out the school gates looking preternaturally poised and preened thanks to having learned about beauty on the internet, I had many, many mishaps when it came to my appearance.
A by no means exhaustive list: the orange eyebrows when I tried to lighten them to mid brown; the spots I caked over with thick concealer; the fake tan streaks from applying poorly with a mitt, and the very, very deep red lipstick that I hoped made me look like Gwen Stefani but which others seemed to find terrifying.
But hurrah to the cyclical nature of beauty, and to having a second go at things. Especially that matte red lip, which TikTokers have taken to with gusto and have even dubbed “red lip theory”, the idea being that a single swipe is transformative. JW Anderson certainly seem to concur, with make-up artist Lynsey Alexander sending models down the catwalk during their A/W 2024 collection wearing a very intensely matte red lip with no other headline make-up.
This brings me how to do red lipstick. Generally speaking the rules of make-up are that there are no rules – but that doesn’t mean having some guidance isn’t helpful, should you want it. The first thing to say is that a red lip is a centrepiece, a matte one even more so. Let it remain that, just balancing and supporting other features where needed (I find a bit of tactical concealer, a lick of mascara, and a bit of blush do the job well). If you make your skin too matte or the other features too bold, it can tip it out of looking fresh and into looking hackneyed.
This is not to say adding your own embellishment or character can’t look great. If, for example, you want to pair it with a grungy eye for that full ‘90s thing, let Andrea Corr be your muse and make it a little undone, leave skin a little sheeny and imperfect. Another excellent red lipstick muse? Madonna in Evita, all vermillion lips and slight definition – bar the odd retro flick. This is also how Taylor Swift chooses to red lip, sporting a stubbornly scarlet hue with a thick black flick throughout her Eras tour.
A word on application. A little powder around the outside of lips works wonders at reducing bleeding, though most contemporary formulas don’t need anywhere near as much help in that department as their ‘90s counterparts. Make-up artist and brand founder Trish McEvoy tells me that a smudged edge is very French and very now, and that to achieve it you should “apply the red colour directly to your lips, then use a finger to blot, blend, and diffuse.” She warns that the more opaque the colour, the more precise you need to be.
I’d like to add a final word before acquainting you with the best ones to buy: a red lip is nothing without attitude. But the good news is that if you’re feeling a little lacklustre, applying it might just kick that to the side, the lipstick lending you the inner oomph. Maybe those TikTokers are right about that red lip theory business. If only they could also bring about a revival of the wicked sense of fun and freedom that prevailed culturally in the ‘90s, too.
Trish McEvoy Veil Lip Colour in Dressy Red
There’s a hint of raspberry lingering under the surface here, making it a perfect choice if you want a little warmth to light up your face through the red.
Buy now £27.00, Liberty London
MAC Retro Matte Lipstick in Ruby Woo
Perhaps the most famous of all the matte reds, this blue-red instantly confers retro glam.
Buy now £22.00, MAC
Dior Rouge Dior 846 Concorde Velvet Finish
This one leans into a brick red, making it feel modern and the perfect autumnal choice.
Buy now £39.00, Dior
