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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
World
Eva Corlett in Whakarewarewa

Māori village nestled among hot springs reckoning with the return of foreign tourists

Fiona Goodall Whakarewarewa Mike Gibbons New Zealand
Geothermal activity at Whakarewarewa
Steam billows from one of the pools surrounding Whakarewarewa, a Māori village in New Zealand’s North Island. Photograph: Fiona Goodall/The Guardian

“At the height of summer, we would get maybe 4,000 people a day,” says James Warbrick as he crosses the bridge into Whakarewarewa, a tiny Māori village pocketed between hundreds of steaming, bubbling geothermal pools – a place like no other and one at the heart of New Zealand’s tourism industry.

But today there are no tourists in sight.

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