“My earliest memories are the wonderful sweet smells: toasted hazelnuts, the fruit, the yeast,” says Marco Brandani, recalling childhood visits to his family’s panettone bakery.
Today he’s the CEO, and while the company, Maina, has grown – with its festive domed bread now finding its way to British tables at Christmastime via M&S – the aromas wafting around the factory in northern Italy are unchanged.
The basic recipe for the 120,000 panettones baked daily in the months leading up to the festive season remains that perfected in 1969 by Brandani’s Uncle Bruno, a pastry chef. “Sicilian orange peel, plump sultanas, almonds from Puglia, butter, eggs,” lists Brandani. “We made the choice never to compromise on ingredients, on quality. To do so would be like betraying my family.”
Bruno died a few years ago but the influence of his generation runs deep. Brandani has coffee with his parents on his way to work each day; his Uncle Tonino oversees production; and a photo of his late Aunt Franca adorns his office wall. “She did the finances,” he says. “I say hello to her every morning.”
Working with family has, Brandani says, not only deepened their bonds, but also given him total clarity about Maina’s mission: “To make proper panettones as they used to be, with traditional recipes, that taste delicious.”
For almost every Italian family, Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas unless it was celebrated with a fruit-studded panettone. “It is part of those moments of togetherness, of tradition for us Italians,” he says. “As a child, I remember those big meals on Christmas Eve, eating the panettone, and then knowing we would unwrap our presents.”
Not only is panettone tied to festivity and family, it is, he says, symbolic of Italian history. “Our cuisine originated as a series of local cuisines. Panettone is from Milan; other areas had their own Christmas cakes. Then as people migrated north to find work, they discovered panettone, took it home to their families at Christmas, and it supplanted the others.”
Across Italy the past is reflected in what is served at the family table. “We are deeply loyal to the dishes we have always eaten. Maina is maintaining the traditions, the artisanal approach, while embracing the possibilities of technology.”
When an automatic kneading process was introduced in 1984, production was revolutionised, but there are many processes the company has chosen not to change.
Every Maina panettone is made from a sourdough and Brandani talks of the respect with which this “mother dough” must be treated. “We call it the mother because we look after it, we feed it, give it water, knead it, rest it. It is the heart of the factory.”
The ovens at the factory in Fossano, Piedmont, are turned on in July, with part of the dough selected daily. “It takes three days from that point to a panettone coming out of the oven,” he says. Each one is hung upside down for eight hours to cool; a process that ensures the panettone’s characteristic height and airy texture. “Our methods are long and complex, but the result is a panettone that is exceptionally moist, fragrant and tall.”
Brandani is delighted that the love of this iconic bread has spread beyond Italy, with new markets adding their own twists. After our conversation, he is heading off to see a spiced caramel panettone made for M&S come out of the ovens. Made with spiced caramel sauce and fudge chunks topped with chocolate and caramelised almonds, Brandani’s team has spent months ensuring that these new ingredients are a match made in heaven for his traditional dough.
“It is a big responsibility to be part of people’s celebrations, so when we introduce new flavours, they have to be delicious,” he says. Uncle Bruno, he feels sure, would greatly approve.
This is not just panettone ...
… this is M&S spiced caramel panettone, made with love by Brandani and his family for M&S. Find it at your local foodhall.
M&S Food is proud to be sponsoring the Best Producer category at the 2023 Observer Food Monthly Awards. M&S has a passion for provenance, and works with the best growers, suppliers and makers in the industry, all of whom share its high standards. Find out more about M&S Select Farms producers
