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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Entertainment
Bidisha

Macabre, biased and fascinating: why you should visit the Wellcome Collection

A ram’s head as the base of a snuffbox, made in Edinburgh c1881.
A ram’s head as the base of a snuffbox, made in Edinburgh c1881. Photograph: Thom Atkinson

I suspect most Londoners discover the Wellcome Collection by accident. Occupying a handsome white building planted foursquare on a corner of Euston Road, its airy ground-floor cafe is the perfect place for a midday coffee meeting or solo work-stop. Unless people have a curious wander, little will they know that lurking one floor up is the perfect, morbid embodiment of the darkest shadow-sides of the Victorian mind.

The permanent collection of medical artefacts is a ripe mix of Angela Carter, Freud and David Cronenberg, with dim red lighting hitting shining rows of gigantic curved forceps, rusty ancient prosthetic limbs, phrenology skulls, big-boobed fertility goddess effigies, historical sex aids, apothecary jars, smutty pictures carved on ivory, intricate medicine-themed oil paintings and Napoleon’s manky toothbrush.

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