Paris couture has spent decades borrowing from the color and workmanship of India, and this season Dior made that debt impossible to ignore. At the Musée Rodin, creative director Jonathan Anderson built his second haute couture collection for the house around American sculptor Lynda Benglis, an artist whose decades-long relationship with Ahmedabad, in the Indian state of Gujarat, shaped much of the show's soul. What emerged was less a tribute and more a working dialogue between sculpture, cloth, and craft.
Benglis is known for pouring, knotting, and folding materials until flat surfaces turn three-dimensional, and Anderson leaned into that logic across the entire runway. Pleated lamé gowns echoed her molten wax pieces, while silver netting mimicked the chicken-wire sculptures she made famous decades ago.
It set the tone for a collection built on texture rather than trend, which is exactly what keeps this season's Fall/Winter runway trends worth watching. Nothing here felt flat. Every fabric had weight, folds, or a raised surface that asked to be touched rather than simply seen.
