Get all your news in one place.
100’s of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Karen Edwards

Luxury spas and fireside fondue: why I love ski holidays (but don’t ski)

Two female friends sitting outside in ski bar, having conversation, drinking beverage and enjoying the sunny day.
Skiing might not be for everyone, but there’s still plenty to enjoy. Photograph: Brat Co/Stocksy United

It’s that time of the year again, when I sit down with my planner and laptop, searching for the perfect winter getaway with the hope to blast away those February blues – and this year, I’m dreaming of snowy vistas and alpine forests.

Yearning for those mesmerising blanket-of-snow views and the gloriously cosy après-ski atmosphere, the obvious choice of holiday would be a ski break in the French Alps. Only, I’m not a natural skier. The two times I agreed to go skiing with friends, I had to be coaxed down the red runs by a mate, who patiently held my hand the whole way. I just couldn’t shake my worry around falling. So I decided that skiing wasn’t for me.

But while skiing isn’t for me, ski holidays very much are. In fact, I love everything about a ski break – other than the actual skiing. For a start, it’s the perfect opportunity for my group of friends to enjoy some quality time together while getting plenty of fresh air.

Val-d’Isère is one of my favourite regions, simply for its maze of cable car and chairlift experiences. During previous trips, I often found myself gasping with excitement as the ground faded beneath my feet and the cable car slowly climbed to dizzying heights, revealing enthralling views of a vast white carpet peppered with Lego-style spruce trees.

While the others would take on the black runs, I’d usually spend afternoons tinkering around in village shops looking for hand-created arts and crafts, chatting to the market stallholders and stopping off at cosy cafes for a frothy hot chocolate.

My favourite times, however, were when everyone reconvened in the early evening – showered and warm, we would sit around the fire in the après-ski bar sharing anecdotes from our widely varied days. Then we’d enjoy a well-earned sharing pot of gruyère fondue, steaming in its creamy, irresistible goodness.

On other nights, a short walk to a restaurant in town would often lead us to more local flavours. We’d spend hours storytelling and reminiscing over fresh steak tartare, a light tartiflette, or raclette – for me, the most delicious food in the world. It couldn’t be any more perfect.

Val Thorens Sensations Club Med resort
Club Med Val Thorens features a luxury spa Photograph: PR

The good news for the non-skiers among us is that there are holiday packages, such as those created by Club Med, whose wide range of activities and amenities allow everyone to indulge equally in the regional beauty. The high-altitude resort of Club Med Val Thorens, for example, is home to a luxury Sothys spa offering massages and a whirlpool bath with a stunning view of the mountains – exactly what you need after spending the day tramping through the snow. Club Med’s all-inclusive holidays often include gyms, fitness classes and heated pools – so you can get active without a pair of skis – while lively après-ski entertainment provides fun for every kind of guest.

If you’re not a skier but still crave outdoor action and adventure, there are plenty of exciting alternatives in the French Alps. From open-air ice skating to snowmobiling, anyone can now enjoy the stunning views that, previously, could only be experienced by skiers.

Here are five of the most alluring options:

Male and female mountain bikers riding fatbikes on snow covered landscape.
No skis? No problem. Hit the slopes on two wheels instead. Photograph: simonkr/Getty Images

Snow mountain biking in Val Thorens
Proving that these snowy hills aren’t just for the skiers and snowboarders, Val Thorens’ adrenaline-filled mountain biking experience is a thrilling way to experience the region’s wintery beauty. Specialised bikes with studded tyres can be hired at Club Med, and cyclists are free to explore the 370 miles of slopes across the glorious Three Valleys ski area before they open and after they close.

Bobsleighing in La Plagne
Home to France’s only bobsleigh track, La Plagne’s famous circuit was built in 1992 for the Winter Olympics. Today, the 1,500-metre frozen track is open to the public and takes willing participants up to speeds of 120km/h. Anyone is welcome to undertake a solo run or form a group for a team challenge.

France, Savoie, the bobsleigh track of La Plagne
La Plagne’s bobsleigh track is open to thrill-seekers. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

Ice skating in Tignes
Gliding through the snow on a pair of skis is certainly not the only way to take in the pristine landscape of the Tignes resort. A frozen lake is an 800-square-metre ice rink, providing winter fun for visitors of all ages. Admission is complimentary with a ski pass and skaters can hire boots upon arrival at the lake. Any brave souls keen to explore what goes on below the ice can embark on an ice-diving adventure, too.

Nordic and snowshoe walking in Valmorel
Exploring the natural forests of the picture-perfect Aigueblanche valleys by foot is perhaps one of the most therapeutic activities to enjoy at this time of the year. Nordic walking (included in the price of Club Med holidays) is the practice of a mindful hike – typically with poles – and is perfect for a full-body workout. Snowshoeing involves wearing specialised footwear that spreads the walker’s weight over a large surface area, allowing them to venture into untouched snow-covered paths.

Snowmobiling in Val Thorens
Not many holidaymakers get the chance to explore the Alps under a starry night sky. In Val Thorens, the best way to do this is by snowmobile, carving your own path through the untouched snow while winding through the spruce trees. Guests at Club Med have the option to pay a little extra to sign up to one of three guided daily departures, typically leaving between 5:30pm and 8pm.

Club Med ski holidays in the French Alps are the ideal winter break – visit here to find out more. Also discover Club Med’s exciting new luxury resorts Club Med Val d’Isère and Club Med Tignes for Winter 2022 and 2023.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100’s of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.