Lucky Strike may be the only place in Bristol you can order spaghetti hoops and a negroni under the same roof. Granted, one is served for breakfast and the other for dinner, but the new East Street venue is treading a tightrope between a traditional British caff and a modern bistro.
Owner, maitre d' and cocktail connoisseur Tom Montgomery said he wanted to help improve the reputation of British food with his 1970s-inspired nostalgia cafe. The concept has been met with success in London like at Norman's Cafe, which serves fry ups by day and refined, homecooked-style food in the evening.
Inside feels like you're walking onto a set of a Wes Anderson film with its uniform, minimalist decor and mid-century-style furniture. Scanning the menu, it's filled with dishes your nan might make like ox hearts, roast chicken and pot pie.
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The snacks are so simple you could almost classify them as 'bits from the fridge'. But the Caerphilly style cheese from Trethowan Brothers was phenomenal with its earthy mushroom-flavoured rind paired with a sweet in-house chutney (£4.50). The crudites (£4 with a broad bean dip) were ferociously 1970s and the handmade pickles (£3) were subtle and sweet, used with vegetables from Hugo's greengrocer.
Lucky Strike's chilled tomato soup at £5.50 was silky smooth and mild, unlike gazpacho, but I couldn't help but wonder what it would be like served warm. Potted Severn & Wye smoked mackerel is a rich and buttery fish - its freshness was augmented by the smoky flavour.
For main course, the fennel and celery pot pie (£10) felt warm and comforting with bursts of green and black peppercorns in each bite. The chicken, albeit another deliberately cold dish cold, was succulent and moist covered in a lavish, mushroom and tarragon sauce.
The stuffed red pepper (£8) was the only plate that fell a little flat, filled with bland rice and a scattering of green beans. Pepper aside, overall, the dishes were difficult to fault aside from some benefiting from a touch more seasoning.
A dessert at Lucky Strike is imperative as they always lean heavily into the playful, nostalgic element. The thick slab of pineapple upside-down traybake was like school dinner dessert on steroids (£3) and its rhubarb and raspberry mess (£5.50)
Black forest delight (£6) was a true spectacle like a sundae made for grown ups. The glass was filled with heavy, rich chocolate cream underneath a bitter cherry compote and finished off with a mountain of chantilly.
I tip my hat to Tom's cocktail-making skills, including a first-class negroni (£8) but in particular his rival of last word (£10.50) a punchy Prohibition-era drink with Chartreuse and maraschino. Alternatively, there's a small selection of wines, beers and softs.
When I spoke with Tom back in March, we tip-toed around the dreaded 'g-word' when discussing Lucky Strike's place on East Street. At the time, he said he was very conscious that it's a neighbourhood that's changing, offering a menu and price point did not alienate the community.
In fact, Bedminster is changing so much that a Government High Street Task Force has been called in to assess how to rejuvenate East Street in a way that stops people and businesses from being pushed out. The report compares the neighbouring North Street, which has a thriving hospitality scene and is dominated by independent businesses.
Lucky Strike definitely signifies that change is afoot. And while it's different from the other caffs on East Street, it triumphs in its celebration of the area, serving bread from Bristol Loaf, fruit and veg from Hugo's and meat from Kelvin's next door. The menu is simple yet bold, nostalgic but contemporary - and changes regularly.
If you're selective, you can comfortably eat three courses for around £20 per head, with snacks and starters at £3-£6.50, main courses costing between £8-£12, and desserts from £3-£6. A brunch menu is served in the day including ham, egg and chips, square sausage and its famous homemade Lucky Hoops on toast.
Lucky Strike 61 East St, Bedminster, Bristol BS3 4HB. Open Wednesday - Saturday. Brunch is served 10am-2.30pm. Dinner service is 5pm - 10pm. Book online or call 07940 026898. https://www.luckystrike.cafe/
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