There’s an air of mystery about Norfolk’s huge stately homes. Sandringham is the most famous of course, so beloved by the late Queen, while Anmer Hall is the country bolthole for the Prince and Princess of Wales, but what about all the other rambling piles?
For years I have driven past so many, craning my neck to catch a glimpse of a turret here or a coach house there, imagining the welly-wearing, wax-jacketed family inside.
Well now you can take yourself down one of those long, sweeping drives behind intricate iron gates and imagine, for a few days at least, that you too are part of that exclusive set, at Wolterton Hall. Part of the stunning 18th century estate Wolterton Park in North Norfolk.
Pulling up to the imposing red bricked main entrance, it’s not hard to imagine how it must have felt for guests of yesteryear, arriving for a banquet perhaps, or a society ball. The Palladian house’s perfectly symmetrical windows would have looked down approvingly at the horses carriages crunching the gravel and dispatching gentry.
As my companion and I peered around the huge main door, a bell echoing through the entrance hall, we were welcomed at the 300-year-old house by 10-week-old Margot, a scampering spaniel puppy, sliding up to our feet across the stone floor. “She’s named after Margot in ‘The Good Life’, not Robbie” her owner Laura Foster explained, one of the delightful estate staff who keep everything running with the efficiency of a Georgian grandfather clock.
Built by the brother of Britain’s first Prime Minister Robert Walpole, frequently visited by Lord Nelson and left derelict for decades, Wolterton Hall has seen its fair share of aristocratic ups and downs.
Peter Sheppard and Keith Day have brought the 500-acre estate back to life with a flourish and no scrimping on the budget
Now though it has been restored and is as glorious as it was when first completed in the 1740s. Shuttered up for many years, it was in a rather sorry state when design duo Peter Sheppard and Keith Day bought it and let the sunlight in once more. They brought the 500-acre hall and estate back to life with a flourish and no scrimping on the budget. Rooms have a comfortable stately home vibe with a streak of chic, a spot of eccentricity, and a touch of glamour. It’s country pile, without the clunky plumbing.
Having a dog at your feet is a prerequisite here, clearly, and estate manager Chris Patten and his lab Jessie gave us a guided tour. He’s clearly very proud of what has been achieved. We saw room after room, refurbished with huge attention to detail. As Chris pointed out tapestries and drinks cabinets hidden behind fake books, the kids rescued Jessie’s ball from under Georgian cabinets and the bed in the room where George I used to stay when visiting.
Rent the entire East Wing, or as we did, take a cottage. We were in the Steward’s house, kitted out with high end appliances, dreamy duvets and proper rainfall showers. A goody bag including homemade cake and a bottle of wine was very welcome.
Guests are surrounded by rolling fields, a wildflower meadow, one of the largest walled gardens in the country and a beautiful lake — perfect for wild swimming, canoeing and reenacting that moment from Pride and Prejudice. I may not have a double-barrelled surname but I did pick up a shotgun to try clay pigeon shooting and fully immerse myself in my Lord of the Manor moment (from £67, activityshooting.co.uk).
As we strode the grounds amongst the sheep, chickens and cattle we imagined ourselves as Lord and Lady Walpole, gazing back at Wolterton gleaming in the Autumn sunshine. One of the joys of staying here is the freedom to wander and explore the estate’s delightful corners without restriction.
We finished our stroll at the end of the drive, where handily the Saracen’s Head pub (saracenshead-norfolk.co.uk)serves excellent meals and local beer.
The 18th century writer, stylist and cruel wit Horace Walpole (son of Sir Robert) approved of the hall: "I was really charmed with Wolterton… Their house is more than a good one; if they had not saved eighteen pence in every room it would have been a fine one."
Well it is now more than fine, no expense has been spared on this latest chapter in Wolterton’s history. Recently new owners have taken over, a local Norfolk family keen to keep the hall as somewhere for everyone to enjoy.
