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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Mike Daw

London's new generation of 'Indian tapas' restaurants

Britain’s enduring infatuation with the food of the Indian subcontinent shows no sign of waning. Indian food here has survived eras of stuffy formality and flagrant bastardisation, passed down through families, ever evolving.

What was once homogenous has become nuanced; different regional cuisines and techniques are now recognised. There is much to say about regional Indian food, with London offering some real sit-up-and-pay-attention spots. From the Kerelan and Tamil Nadu food of the south to the Punjabi cuisine of the north west, most of the 28 Indian states are well accounted for here in London. But while a number of Indian restaurants in the capital have veered towards fine dining, now though, there’s a new generation of more casual, so-called “Indian tapas” spots coming through.

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