The fashion industry may be bursting with creativity but it struggles with representing the entire population that it serves.
Last year’s British Fashion Council diversity report outlined that while some progress has been made, “there is urgent need for change” and “the industry’s leadership remains dominated by men and white leaders”. It is a point underscored by the recent appointment of new, white male creative directors at Alexander McQueen and Moschino.
The Standard’s black fashion power list honours the trailblazers who continue to forge a path for the next generation. Here are the figures shaping fashion’s future:
Naomi Campbell, Model
Streatham-born Naomi Campbell is one of Britain’s most revered models. Her extraordinary career spanning almost four decades will be showcased by Naomi, an all-encompassing retrospective at the V&A next summer. She tells the Standard, “London fashion is incredibly innovative. There’s always a cutting edge new style, often from the street or a super new talented designer about to happen. I am constantly excited to see these influential new movements taking off in our capital. However, I won’t be easing up in the battle for more diversity in the fashion world. I am determined not to see the great progress that has been made slip away.”
Adwoa Aboah, Model
Adwoa Aboah was crowned Model of the Year in 2017, the same year she appeared on the December cover of Edward Enninful’s inaugural British Vogue. She has walked for Chanel, Dior and Versace, and this season smashed back onto the scene walking the Burberry, Moschino, Ahluwalia and Holzweiler SS24 shows. Last year she made her acting debut in the hit Netflix show Top Boy, and she is also founder of Gurls Talk, a non-profit dedicated to promoting the mental health of young people.
Kai-Isaiah Jamal, Model
South London native Kai-Isaiah Jamal has graced the runways of Burberry and Louis Vuitton and landed solo covers of Elle UK, i-D and ES Magazine. A skilled poet, they were described by Virgil Abloh in 2021 as “the voice of their generation” and are committed to advocating for the trans community. In a historic nomination, Jamal is up for Model of the Year at the 2023 Fashion Awards; it makes them the first ever trans nominee and the only Londoner in the category this year.
Jourdan Dunn, Model
Jourdan Dunn made history in 2008 walking for Prada, making her the first black model to do so since Naomi Campbell in 1997. On winning Model of the Year at the Fashion Awards that year she says, “Up until that moment I had always felt like an outsider, and winning that award made me feel seen and accepted.” She has since covered British Vogue, walked for myriad designers, and is a fixture on the front row supporting London’s upcoming designers.
Edward Enninful OBE, Editor
Edward Enninful was an industry wunderkind, scouted as a model at 16 and appointed fashion director of i-D at 18. Fearlessly disproving the outdated notion that casting black models results in lower circulation figures, his groundbreaking 2008 Vogue Italia ‘Black Issue’ sold out in the UK and US in 72 hours. He was awarded an OBE for his services to diversity in fashion in 2016, and became the first black editor-in-chief of British Vogue the next year. “We have made great progress in ushering more black designers and models into our industry, but there is more that can be done to pave the way for the next generation,” he says. “The fashion industry has to reflect all communities, and we have to continue to encourage the industry to be more inclusive in every aspect.”
Chioma Nnadi, Editor
As British Vogue’s newly appointed head of editorial content, Chioma Nnadi is the first black woman to lead the 107-year old fashion title. She began her career on the features desk of the Evening Standard, before moving to New York. She’s been at US Vogue since 2010, where she became editor of Vogue.com. Back in London, she’s keen to boost the British fashion industry. “There are just so many places for young people of all walks of life to get their voices heard [here],” she says. “It makes for a more democratic system — we’re able to hold the industry to account in a way we weren’t before. But more than that, it creates a conversation around fashion that feels urgent, lively and truly vital.”
Kenya Hunt, Editor
She is the first black woman to edit Elle UK, but Kenya Hunt’s career began in the US as assistant editor of Jane Magazine. After moving across the pond in 2008, she worked as global style director of Metro International and deputy editor of Grazia and Elle UK. Her current role is “a dream job” that she pays forward, supporting aspiring fashion creatives as the founder of R.O.O.M. Mentoring. Hunt holds a Toni Morrison quote close to her heart: “When you get these jobs that you have been so brilliantly trained for, just remember that your real job is that if you are free, you need to free somebody else. If you have some power, then your job is to empower somebody else.”
Ib Kamara, Editor
Named editor of Dazed and winner of the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator at the 2021 Fashion Awards, Ib Kamara has presided over an impressive career in a short time frame. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2016, he gained traction as a stylist before becoming i-D’s fashion editor-at-large two years later. Kamara has collaborated with photographers including Rafael Pavarotti, Mert and Marcus, and David Sims as well as consulted for brands such as Louis Vuitton and Burberry. Now he splits his time between Dazed and Off-White, which he has led as art and image director since 2022.
Misan Harriman, Photographer
Misan Harriman is chairman of the Southbank Centre and made history in 2020 as the first black man to both photograph a British Vogue cover and the coveted September issue. Self-taught, he began his creative ascent in 2017 and has since photographed Rihanna, Cate Blanchett and has become the Duchess of Sussex’s go-to. Harriman’s work is for “all the black poets of light out there, it’s important for them to know that their compositions have limitless possibilities”, he says.
Campbell Addy, Photographer
Campbell Addy is known for his arresting photography, which is often focused on black and queer culture. His first solo exhibition I ♥ Campbell was presented by 180 Studios in May. His notable repository includes shots of Tyler, the Creator, Naomi Campbell and FKA Twigs. As the founder of Nii Journal and Agency, he was also recognised as a New Wave Creative at the Fashion Awards in 2017 and 2018.
Ama Quashie, Manicurist
Ama Quashie is the Brixton-based manicurist to the A-list — she’s just done Carey Mulligan’s nails for US Vogue. Alongside many cover shoots, she’s also worked with brands including Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Jimmy Choo and Loewe. She intentionally pulls from a “globalised palette and reference sheet”, she says, and wants black women to “get the credit they deserve” for originating a plethora of nail trends.
Charlotte Mensah, Hairstylist
Charlotte Mensah’s métier spans across both styling and creating an unbeatable product range, Manketti Oil. Her 2020 book Good Hair features an introduction by Zadie Smith and is both a guide and memoir, treasured by those with afro-textured hair. She was the first black woman to be inducted into the British Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame, and tends to clients including Tracee Ellis Ross, Michaela Coel and Erykah Badu from her Portobello Road salon. To Mensah, hairstyling is more than just a job: “It’s a shared cultural expression that looks different every single day.”
Bernicia Boateng, Makeup Artist
Bernicia Boateng’s expert makeup knowledge has attracted 240,000 Instagram followers as well as distinguished clients including Jourdan Dunn, Jodie Turner-Smith and Michaela Coel. She worked with the latter on both her US Vogue cover and Met Gala appearance last year. Honoured by Forbes’s prestigious 30 under 30 for Art & Culture in Europe list in 2020, Boateng uses her success to support her local community, offering internships and career advice at her Leyton studio.
Dame Pat McGrath, Makeup Artist
The legendary Dame Pat McGrath has been at the helm of the beauty industry for 25 years. Her pioneering looks include adorning models with jewels, lacquered masks and feathers, working on the shows of Alexander McQueen, Maison Margiela, Prada, Gucci and Givenchy, to name a few. The 2019 Selfridges’ launch for her makeup brand Pat McGrath Labs was then the biggest selling cosmetics launch in the shop’s history. In 2019, she was included in Time’s 100 most influential people list, while 2021 saw her receive a DBE for services to the fashion and beauty industry and diversity, making her the first make-up artist to receive the honour.
Jeanie Annan-Lewin, Stylist
Stylist Jeanie Annan-Lewin has worked for publications i-D, Harper’s Bazaar and LOVE magazine, and has styled recent cover shoots with Naomi Campbell, Gwendoline Christie and Shygirl. As creative director of Perfect Magazine, she works to promote undiscovered and upcoming talent. An outspoken voice in the industry, Annan-Lewin asserts that there needs to be more people of colour “in decision-making roles”. Those in positions of power must “hire people with vision, take risks, nurture talent and sit with being uncomfortable”.
Jessica Skeete-Cross, Stylist
As ES Magazine’s style director, Jessica Skeete-Cross has styled cover shoots with Pharrell, Robert Pattinson, Louis Theroux and Charlotte Rampling. During London Fashion Week this year, she worked as Skepta’s styling consultant to produce his debut Mains catwalk show. “There is amazing talent in the industry, and I have seen improvements in diversity. That said, I do believe there is much further to go when it comes to who is working behind the scenes,” she says.
Ozwald Boateng OBE, Fashion Designer
Ozwald Boateng made history as Savile Row’s first black tailor in 1995 and his sharp cut, ebullient printed suits have been unmissable since. In 2005, he was the subject of a 20-year retrospective exhibition at the V&A, and between 2004 and 2007 he was creative director of menswear at Givenchy. Speaking to The Standard ahead of his London Fashion Week show last year, Boateng said: “There are more people of colour in the industry now then I have ever known before. I was always the only black person in the room, for decades. Now it’s a wholly different experience. It’s quite mind boggling for me, and also exciting to see how the business has shifted.”
Grace Wales Bonner, Fashion Designer
Grace Wales Bonner’s soulful tailoring won her the LVMH Young Designer Prize and BFC X Vogue Designer Fashion Fund within five years of graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2014. Her 2019 collaboration with Dior, which saw her produce a resort collection, was a career highlight and she has gone on to launch collections with Adidas and designed a kit for the Jamaican football team.
Foday Dumbuya, Fashion Designer
Founder and creative director of Labrum, Foday Dumbuya is breaking down barriers by solidifying cultural inclusivity as a natural metric of style. Winner of this year’s Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, he is known for flawlessly marrying West-African and British fashion. For young black designers hoping to follow in his footsteps, Dumbuya’s advice is concise: “Be true to yourself, be authentic and humble, work hard.”
Samuel Ross, Fashion Designer
Samuel Ross, who was born to second-generation Windrush parents, landed his first major gig as first design assistant to Virgil Abloh, who discovered him on Instagram in 2012. From there, he founded luxury menswear label A-COLD-WALL* in 2014, which quickly earned a cult following and gained 200 stockists worldwide and physical flagship stores by 2022. For Ross, the design process is “a language affecting all surfaces and layers of expression from garment to physical environment”.
