Brianda Gonzalez grew up in Avalon, a resort town on the island off the coast of Los Angeles that had 16 bars in a square mile. Her upbringing taught her about the ritual and conviviality of drinking culture, but also some of the drawbacks.
Last summer, Gonzalez, 28, opened a different kind of bar, on a trendy block in Venice, California, where her neighbors include a vegan pizza parlor and a tattoo shop.
