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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
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Fatma Aydemir

Like Germany’s president, I love a good kebab. Cosying up to autocrats like Erdoğan, less so

German president Frank-Walter Steinmeier and Berlin restaurateur Arif Keleş in Istanbul, Turkey, 22 April 2024.
German president Frank-Walter Steinmeier and Berlin restaurateur Arif Keleş in Istanbul, Turkey, 22 April 2024. Photograph: Anadolu/Getty Images

“Nazis eat döner kebabs in secret,” must be one of the dumbest slogans I have seen at German protests against the far right. Yes, the popularity of the kebab in Germany has become something of a symbol of labour migration from Turkey after the second world war. And yes, Nazis get hungry, too. So what? If the consumption of ethnic-minority food was really an obstacle to the ideology of white supremacy, Germans would either be starved out by now or they wouldn’t vote for Alternative für Deutschland (AfD). Neither of these is the case: the kebab is the second most popular fast food among Germans, and according to polls, the AfD their second most popular political party.

Still, for the German president, Frank-Walter Steinmeier, it seems to be a sign of cosmopolitanism to promote kebab eating, so his team thought it a good idea to send him to Turkey with a whole skewer full of meat as part of an official visit this week, the first by a German president in 10 years.

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