You know how you break up with someone, and then everywhere you go, there they are? I’ve been experiencing something like that these last few months, since moving back to London from New York – I can’t go a single day in without seeing a Trader Joe’s tote bag. I knew of this phenomenon of cultural exchange (Brits carry these TJ bags; in the US, they love a Daunt Books one) and while it speaks to the “cousin on your mum’s side” relationship of our two nations, it’s still jarring to see these bags casually hanging out on a London bus. Like bumping into your teacher at Butlin’s in a Hawaiian shirt. It’s not quite right.
For those who don’t know, Trader Joe’s is a supermarket chain in the US that is also the primary source of the type of silly little snacks and convenience dinners that sustain life when you can’t be bothered to do more than throw something in your mouth while lying on the sofa. The limited edition Thanksgiving stuffing kettle chips? I still dream of them. The crispy crunchy okra or the crispy onion chips? Come back, the kids miss you. And of course, the fruity jellies. More than one care package from friends in Brooklyn has contained these since I moved back, and I fall to my knees in gratitude every single time.
It feels like M&S is trying to do something similar with its snacks and picky bits, and TikTok is full of people urging me to try its speckled egg cookies, or the “clouds” range: nutty, crunchy, crispy. And I’m not immune. I have discovered the tomatillo and jalapeño corn tortilla crisps, and I’m obsessed (as is my kid), and of course Percy Pig and I have had a fulfilling relationship for years now. I may scoff … but I truly appreciate the effort.
Bim Adewunmi is a freelance journalist
Do you have an opinion on the issues raised in this article? If you would like to submit a response of up to 300 words by email to be considered for publication in our letters section, please click here.
