Levante, 11 Lewis Grove, London SE13 6BG (020 8355 3522). Starters £5-£11, mains £11-£19, desserts £4.95-£5.50, wines from £17
I am standing in front of a corrugated shutter in Lewisham, southeast London, thinking about what might have been. Behind this shutter is a one-time caff, a venerable greasy spoon if you will, that once traded in the holy trinity of egg, chips and beans, alongside steaming mugs of tea the colour of a Caramac bar. Recently it was taken over by the Italian Antonio Delicatessen next door. It’s still a caff, only now one with a strong Italian accent, utilising the ingredients stocked by the mothership.
