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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Jay Rayner

Lark, Bury St Edmunds: ‘Clever, relaxed, and hugely enjoyable’ – restaurant review

Lark dining room
‘Properly special’: Lark. Photograph: Chris Ridley/The Observer

Lark, 6A Angel Hill, Bury St Edmunds IP33 1UZ (larkrestaurant.co.uk). Snacks £2.50-£7, plates £11-£28, desserts £10-£12, wines from £25 a bottle

Some words are more abused than others. “Special” is one of those. Russia’s murderous war on Ukraine is apparently a “special military operation”. The Royal Mail’s “special delivery” service invariably means you’ll receive a card through your door from someone who couldn’t be arsed to ring the bell, even though you were in, telling you to go and collect your package from the post office. And then there’s the use of special on menus, which may indicate that the kitchen ordered too much of something nobody wanted to eat, and now it’s been repurposed as a soup still nobody wants to eat.

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