Is a restaurant worth a 4am alarm and a 1,600-mile round trip? Some are worth far more: I’d ride a horse naked through Bracknell to go to Maido in Peru, or Wing in Hong Kong. But they are two of the best dining destinations in the world. I wasn’t so sure about Langosteria, an upscale Italian seafood restaurant, even if it counts Rihanna, Naomi Campbell, Leonardo DiCaprio and the Beckhams as fans.
Still, you can’t let an early morning get in the way of a free trip to Italy, so I clambered fuzzily into my Addison Lee and off we went to join the international commuters at City Airport — all very expensive linen and bad croissants.