Köd (pronounced “cud” in Danish), tucked down St Anne’s Court off Dean Street in Soho, is a dark, cavernous Danish steak restaurant with the odd flash of neon faux glamour. In fact, it reminds me of nothing so much as a Wednesday goth night at a club called Ritzy’s in 1987; it’s also the oddest place I’ve eaten in all year.
Köd arrived in London in 2023, over in Liverpool Street, and marketed itself as serving the very best of Nordic meats and experimental Scandi cooking: lobster with crisp pasta and daikon, cod ceviche with passionfruit vinaigrette, that kind of thing. Over in Soho, however, such blue-sky thinking has been grounded, and there’s a scant choice of rather lazy options, alongside Japanese wagyu, Australian striploin and châteaubriand from South America, all served with chips, chips or chips.
