At first glance, the two-button control setup in Kirby Air Riders may seem simple, but it goes way deeper than it looks. Even while the game handles acceleration for you, tiny tweaks in your controls and how you handle drifting can usually make or break a race for you.
So, whether you’re tearing through racetracks or going all in on City Trials, these are the control layouts you should be using right now.
Pro Controller / Dual Joy / GameCube Controllers
Every controller handles the same core mechanics, but button groups shift depending on the layout. You don’t have to worry about acceleration since it’s automatic, so all your focus should be on steering and timing boosts instead.
Here is a quick breakdown of the core settings:
| Inputs | Control |
| L-Stick Left/Right | Turn/Quick Spin (repeatedly)/Rail Switch |
| L-Stick Up | Nosedive, descent while gliding |
| L-Stick Down | Ascend, glide, and gain altitude |
| ZL/ZR/X/B/A | Brake (Pressed briefly)Inhale and copy (Pressed near a rival)Activate ability (Pressed after acquiring an ability)Use the Item (Pressed after obtaining an item)Brake & Boost Charge (Pressed and held down)Descent rapidly (Pressed when gliding) |
| ZL, ZR, X, B, A + L-Stick Down | Reverse |
| L/R/Y | Machine Swap (Pressed briefly)Activate Special (If the special gauge is full)Dismount from the ride (Press and hold down) |
With horizontal Joy-Cons, the brake/charge buttons are swapped to SL/SR/ZL, good for casual play. Meanwhile, on a GameCube controller, L/R/Y/A/X are used for charge, great for precision with tighter sticks.
Optimal Controls And Tweaks
The most used controller is the Pro Controller; it’s just easier to hit charges with your thumb without fumbling during drifts. On the other hand, the GameCube controller is preferred by more competitive players, thanks to its analog resistance, so you don’t end up oversteering on tricky rides like the Wheelie Scooter.
- For Top Ride Mode, switch to Free Control when you’re learning. It gives you direct tilt movement, which feels more natural. However, if you’re looking to cut tight corners in competitive games, Steer Control is the way to go. With this, the rider rotates independently, letting you squeeze through those tight turns.
- Set Boost Charge to “Hold”. Trust me, it makes a difference, and you get to feather your releases and chain drifts together. More so, also turn the Quick Spin Sensitivity to “Hard”. That way, you won’t spin out by accident on sharp turns. You can also alternate with controller shake if your thumbs start to fatigue.
- You can also remap Boost Charge to ZL (Pro) or L (GameCube) for better reaction speed with index fingers. Test in Time Attack on Magma Flows to feel the difference and swap accordingly.
- Lastly, turn off Motion/Shake Controls to Off. Unless you want the controller shake for Quick Spins, keep it off to avoid accidental inputs.
Tip: Pump brakes (tap Boost Charge in turns) for micro-boosts. Practice nosedive landings parallel to the ground off ramps.
Unless you’re looking to top any leaderboards, you should mainly stick to Pro Layout as its spacing works best for brake pumping (Tapping A/B while turning for micro-boosts).
