When Gavin Leung, a food writer and journalist, started dabbling in the world of mixology, he didn’t envision that one day he would be a fully-fledged bar owner. Following guest stints at Hong Kong favourites like The Aubrey at Mandarin Oriental and Dr Fern’s Gin Parlour, Leung came to the realise that Cantonese spirits, once a thriving industry, were notably absent from the menus at many of the city’s cocktail bars. And so Kinsman was born (and is a worthy stop for those seeking revival after a day at Art Basel Hong Kong 2024).
Kinsman cocktail bar in Hong Kong’s Soho
The latest to join the growing portfolio of local hospitality group Singular Concepts, Kinsman takes its name from the family-run nature of many of Hong Kong’s original distilleries and serves as a nostalgic reminder of the city’s glory days as a major hub for spirits-distilling. Alongside local craft beers, homegrown sake, and natural and biodynamic wines from small-scale producers across Asia, the concise cocktail menu is innovative yet familiar, primarily anchored by Cantonese and Chinese spirits.
For example, Kowloon Dairy – a Hong Kong interpretation of the milk punch – blends and clarifies roselle and magnolia amaros, by local brand Magnolia Lab, with ma yun (hemp seed) syrup and pu’er tea, while the Satsuma Snow shakes together jiuniang –a half-fermented Chinese rice drink – with its rice grains, sweet potato shochu, coffee shochu and Okinawan black sugar, resulting in a savoury tipple unexpectedly reminiscent of ramen noodles.
Like the drinks, the food menu is also a novel and tasty tribute to Hong Kong’s culinary traditions with a small selection of elevated favourites, including the perfectly crisp shrimp toast, wagyu ox tongue baked rice, and the lap cheong platter – a charcuterie board featuring a seasonal selection of Chinese sausages – with housemade pickles.
All this comes together in an intimate 50-seat space designed by Atelier Shan, which took its cues from the forgotten world depicted in the movie In the Mood for Love. The result is romantic and evocative with accents like the shophouse-inspired chequered flooring, the colourful mural behind the bar by illustrator Mally Cheung, which features former landmarks in the city, and wistful menu illustrations, which are also hung on the walls, by local artist, Stella the Dreamatcher.
And while Kong Kong’s Soho is not short of a trendy bar, Kinsman is certainly stealing the march with its distinct approach to celebrating the tradition of Cantonese spirits.
