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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
National
Caroline Davies

King Charles’s used clothes: palace details vestments for coronation

Caroline de Guitaut, deputy surveyor of the king's works of art for the Royal Collection Trust, adjusts the Imperial Mantle.
Caroline de Guitaut, deputy surveyor of the king's works of art for the Royal Collection Trust, adjusts the Imperial Mantle. Photograph: Getty Images

The king will be attired in historic vestments worn at past coronations during numerous costume changes at Westminster Abbey on 6 May, Buckingham Palace has said.

The ceremony will see him layered in heavy shimmering gold cloth, with the oldest item being the Imperial Mantle, spun from gold, silver and silk thread, with a gold bullion fringe and gold clasp, and dating back to the opulent coronation of George IV in 1821.

The simplest vestment will be a Colobium sindonis, a white linen shift-like tunic, and a plain collar fastened with a single button, intended to represent a priest’s alb and worn after the sacred moment of anointing. Its simplicity is designed to represent the divesting of all worldly vanity to stand before God. Charles has decided to wear the same one as his grandfather, George VI in 1937.

A detail of the Supertunica.
A detail of the Supertunica. Photograph: Victoria Jones/PA

Over the top of this will be placed the Supertunica, a full-length, sleeved gold coat, which was made in 1911 for King George V and has been used in every coronation since, although it has changed little in design since medieval coronations and is based on priestly and religious vestments.

Also known as the Close Pall of Cloth of Gold, it weighs about 2kg, with the front featuring an embroidered band with spiral threads that take the shape of leafy stems using the gold work technique.

Over this will be placed the floor-length cloak of the Imperial Mantle, or Robe Royal. The cloth of gold is woven with roses, thistles, shamrocks, crowns, eagles and fleurs-de-lis, while the gold clasp is in the shape of an eagle, a recurring symbol in coronation regalia. The heir to the throne, the Prince of Wales, will play a role in the service by entering the coronation theatre to assist with placing the robe on his father, which weighs 3-4kg.

The Girdle, also known as the Coronation Sword Belt, is made of cloth of gold, and embroidered in gold thread with arabesques and scrolls. It is lined with dark red silk, with a gold buckle stamped with national emblems (roses, thistles and shamrocks) and a gold clip for attaching the Jewelled Sword of Offering in place. During the service, the Sword Belt is placed around the Supertunica, with the the Jewelled Sword of Offering then “girded” or fastened at the sovereign’s waist.

Although normally a new girdle and glove would be made, Charles has opted to reuse those made for his grandfather in 1937, “in the interests of sustainability and efficiency”.

The coronation gauntlet glove and sword belt.
The coronation gauntlet glove and sword belt. Photograph: Getty Images

The white leather glove or gauntlet is made for the right hand, and worn to hold the sovereign’s sceptre during the crowning. Its large cuff is embroidered with gilt metal thread, wire and spangles in the form of national emblems.

He will also be given a Stole Royal – also known as the Coronation Stole – a long, narrow embroidered band of gold silk that goes around the shoulders on top of the Supertunica, mirroring outfits worn by a priest or a bishop.

Caroline de Guitaut, the deputy surveyor of the king’s works of art for the Royal Collection Trust, described the clothing as the most important historic textiles in the royal collection.

“They have clearly incredible historic significance, but they’re also significant because of the sacred nature of their use during the investiture part of the coronation ceremony,” she said

She added: “They are absolutely redolent of coronation ceremony.”

The coronation service will be attended by a congregation of more than 2,200 people, with guests including international representatives from 203 countries, and approximately 100 heads of state, alongside community and charity champions.

The TV presenters Ant McPartlin and Declan Donnelly will join young people who have been supported by the Prince’s Trust at the service. The British Vogue editor-in-chief, Edward Enninful, and the American singer-songwriter Lionel Richie, who are global ambassadors for the trust, are also invited.

Also in attendance will be Kelly Jones, the lead singer of the Welsh band Stereophonics, who were supported by the trust before they signed a record deal, receiving a grant to help them buy equipment so they could perform live. Other high-profile alumni of the charity invited to the event include the magician Dynamo, real name Steven Frayne, who received support, advice and a business start-up loan.

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