Far from the deserts, camels and forts of the arid north, Southern India is home to winding backwaters, golden sands and sleepy villages. With one week to play in a country that’s more like a continent, it’s best to pick a state to focus on to get a proper taste of the region.
Kerala, otherwise known as God’s Own Country, won’t disappoint. Bordered by 580 kilometres of Arabian Sea coastline, home to a major port city (Kochi) and forked by 44 rivers, it’s the place to head for a dose of culture and a serious wind-down. Here’s how to experience the best of it.
Day 1 - 3
Fort Kochi
A neighbourhood in the port city of Kochi, Fort Kochi is the oldest European settlement in India. A place travellers and traders have frequented for more than 600 years, you’ll find a cross-section of history and culture where Chinese fishing nets are a stone’s throw from Portuguese churches; Dutch colonial houses lie near a Jewish quarter; and Hindu temples and mosques sit side-by-side.
With much of Kerala being rural, it’s also the place to browse boutiques, wile away the hours at an art cafe, and sample the region’s mouth-watering seafood.
Stay
Le Colonial 1506
A haven sitting just back from the area’s seafront, Le Colonial 1506 dates back to the 16th century and has had numerous European owners over the years. Privately owned today, this tranquil, eight-bedroom hotel feels like a home away from home but with the boutique frills you’d expect on holiday.
Elegant, spacious rooms are individually decorated with antique furniture and walls are adorned with tasteful European and Indian art. Service is warm and seamless whether you’re recuperating in the hotel’s living room after a day of sightseeing, or sipping a sweet and salty lime soda midday by the pool.
Rooms start from £175 per night. Rates are inclusive of breakfast, afternoon tea and a traditional three-course dinner. lecolonialhotels.com
Do
With limited time in Kochi, throw yourself straight in with a classic city tour. Rise early and wander across the road to see local fishermen catch their haul at the Chinese fishing nets that have stood at the same site since the 14th century.
Visit St. Francis Church, which is one of the oldest European churches in India (18 per cent of Kerala’s population is Christian). Stop by Dhobi Khana, a 300-year-old laundry where the Tamil community conducts business with the same techniques its used for centuries and finish by heading into the narrow streets of Mattancherry.
Home to the Jewish quarter, don’t miss the handpainted Chinese tiles at Paradesi Synagogue, the oldest active synagogue in the Commonwealth.
Dating back to the 17th century, Kathakali is an art performance that typically tells stories of Indian legends and folklore through facial expressions, dance and music. Performers dress in traditional costumes and elaborate mask-like make-up. Head for a pre-dinner performance and if you turn up early, you can often see the actors getting ready.
Nimmy Paul (nimmypaul.com)is something of a Keralan legend in the cheffing world. She’s been profiled by the New York Times and has welcomed the likes of Steve Parle and Thomasina Miers into her home for a private cooking class. Spend the afternoon with her and her team learning classic Southern Indian recipes such as the Meen Molly (coconut fish curry) and Mezukuperatti (a garlicky, fragrant vegetable stirfry) and feast on the delectable creations after.
If you’re planning to fill your suitcase with purchases, head to Princess Street and the surrounding area. Anoki is where to go for block-printed pieces and Bodice and Salt Studio for tailored items that cater to a more minimalist taste. Don’t turn your nose up at some of the more touristy-looking shops — root through enough piles and shelves and you can find some homeware gems. Do remember, it’s a buyers' market in India so haggling is par for the course.
Eat and drink
In the south of the country, ghee (clarified butter) is swapped out for coconut oil, seafood takes precedence over meat, and turmeric, pepper, cardamom and ginger are used in abundance. Le Colonial 1509’s in-house restaurant, Lord Mountbatten, is the perfect place to sample regional specialities.
There is no menu but instead, the chef asks what you’d like before heading to the market and cooking up a feast. Head to family-run Fort House Restaurant (hotelforthouse.com) for a seafront dinner that directly overlooks the port. Try Kerala classics such as appam, stew and prawn mango curry. If it’s a casual snack and beer you’re after, settle in at Hotel Seagull or O Porto Bar.
Day 3 - 4
Alleppey (also known as Alappuzha)
A set of interspersing lakes, canals and lagoons that weave through tiny villages, paddy fields and spice plantations, Kerala’s backwaters are one of the main pulls for visiting this state. The largest wetland in India, traditional boats, or Kettuvallams as they’re known, have been sailing these passages since the earliest rulers of the land, the Cheras, created them for trade and travel.
Previously moving spices, coconuts and rice, today the wooden barges make for a dreamy stay as they meander along tropical waterways.
Stay
Spice Routes
Houseboat rental service Spice Routes (spiceroutes.in) operates six Kettuvallams that sleep between two and 10 and are operated by a local crew. With a focus on luxury, each private boat is spacious, comfortable and fully air-conditioned.
Saffron is the ideal option for couples. The one-bedroom, double-decked barge features a generous ensuite with a vast jacuzzi bath you can laze in as soon as the sun sets. There is also a separate living room, an upstairs dining room, and a balcony.
Joined by a captain, cook and butler, you’ll be served up Keralan banquets on banana leaves; brought cold beers as you sun yourself; and offered Pazham Pori (traditional banana fritters) straight out of the frying pan as an afternoon snack.
Boarding at lunchtime, you’ll spend the afternoon meandering down the backwaters, watching the day-to-day lives of villagers, before parking up for the night. Wake early to watch the sunrise from your bed, see the banks come alive with families washing in the rivers, and spot exotic birds flitting on the water's surface.
Rates start from £245 + taxes per night. Find out more here,
Day 4 - 7
Mararikulam
Kovalam and Varkala are some of the state’s most famous beaches but with a tight timeframe, head to Marari Beach at Mararikulam which is just a 30-minute drive from Alleppey. Largely undeveloped, there are no mega hotels towering over the shoreline. Instead, you’ll find wooden shacks, fishermen and champagne-coloured sands.
Stay
Marari Beach Resort
This eco-resort located by the ocean is flanked by only languid palms along the private beachfront. Part of the CGH Earth group, a group of sustainably focused boutique properties in India, the resort comprises individual thatched cottages sprawled across 30 acres of land.
Interiors aren’t fancy but each villa has a private veranda and open-air bathrooms. Some even have private plunge pools in addition to the resort's main swimming pool.
Rates start from £135 + taxes. Bed and breakfast for single or double occupancy. cghearth.com/marari-beach
Do
The resort’s Ayurvedic spa is excellent and has an extensive treatment list to balance the mind and body. Upon arrival, you’ll have a consultation with a doctor before being whisked away by therapists. If you’re expecting plush, heated beds and spa music, you’ll be disappointed. The setting is rustic and the focus is less on relaxation, more on results — but you’ll emerge feeling glorious.
Opt for Pizhichil (also known as Sarvangadhara) if you want to experience something you’re unlikely to find at home. A three-treatment plan over multiple days, two therapists pour herb-infused hot oil over you continuously for an hour to help regulate the nervous system. Heaven, indeed.
Every day, there is a host of free activities at the hotel, from early morning yoga sessions (recommended), to cooking classes and palm leaf crafting. One that’s undoubtedly worth attending is the birdwatching tour, even if you don’t consider yourself a fully fledged twitcher.
Shibu is the hotel’s naturalist of 15 years. When he started, there were 25 species of birds living in the area and now there are 73. Join him and he’ll point out some of the area's most colourful wildlife — from kingfishers and orioles, to pittas and India’s largest butterfly, the Golden Birdwing.
Eat and drink
Buffets can often feel a bit budget but the one at Marari makes a great case for the all-you-can-eat tradition. You can order off a menu at Chakara restaurant. But, with a plethora of delicious Keralan specialities cooked using ingredients grown in the resort’s garden, and western choices for the less adventurous, it’s hard to see why you wouldn’t opt for the former. For light snacks and cocktails, you can also head to the Beach Shack or Club House.
Details
Bespoke trip planning platform nemo (nemo-travel.com) helped to organise the itinerary for this trip, sharing its expertise on the country and recommending must-sees. The company’s experts arranged all tours, transfers and logistics.
For the duration of a trip, nemo provides portable Wi-Fi boxes and 24-hour support from their team via an app. Seven nights in Kerala with nemo start from £1,995 per person. This includes boutique accommodation, all breakfasts, transfers and epic experiences — but excludes international travel.
