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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie

Josh Barrie reviews the bar at The Park: Life if it were lived on a film set

If you ever get the opportunity, talk to Jeremy King about light. He knows light. Especially in the context of restaurants, where it’s as important as in painting. At The Park, King’s grand café on the edge of Hyde Park, the windows are large and curved and allow for the dining room to bathe. The restaurateur conceived of it to appear as “light through honey” with a “hint of caramel”. That’s what it is and how it feels.

It is true of the bar as it is of the dining room. The bar is now open for drinks and you may visit and drink there without eating. Enjoy snacks if you wish: pea and mint arancini and bruschetta with stracciatella and wild garlic. Both are Alan Titchmarsh-esque in their springtime melody. It’s rare to find decent arancini in London.

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