Emphatic talk of provenance and seasonality is, for the most part, roundly dull. Bore off mate, any good hospitality business worth its salt will use decent suppliers and doing so is nothing new. Yes, bars and restaurants should be open about their sourcing, but making it their entire personality becomes a bit obsessive.
The Nipperkin doesn’t. It is the subterranean bar to 20 Berkeley, a new restaurant where 96 per cent of the produce is sourced from Britain. Usually, a Mayfair townhouse fitted lavishly with rich wood and plush banquettes is hardly the place for talking up farming. Sustainability is a lot less hot in these parts than, say, shipped-in rounds of caviar, or truffle pie warmed on the bonnet of a burning Tesla.
