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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie

Josh Barrie On the Sauce at Oeno Maris: a fishmonger that is also a wine bar

Brian Oeno: the fishmonger turns into a wine bar come evening, with music and snacks - (Oeno Maris)

As I ate the monkfish with its taste of the sea and its meaty texture, wrapped up in a flatbread with garlic butter, chilli and pickles, and washed down with some sort of natural wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans.

I’m paraphrasing an author I talk about too much. Hemingway. A little cliched, predictable, nevertheless it is fitting as I sit and ponder Oeno Maris, a fishmonger and natural wine bar run by Dan “Mustard” Murphy and whose raison d’etre is the quote above in its original form (which is more about oysters).

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