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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie

Josh Barrie On the Sauce at Barbarella: La Dolce Vita in Canary Wharf

Stand under Barbarella: the latest from the Big Mamma Group - (Barberella)

In a world where so many are clamouring to have an opinion on food and drink, but so few know anything about it, I am drawn to Federico Fellini, whose line, “If there were a little more silence, if we all kept quiet… maybe we could understand something”, feels truer than ever.

As far as low-hanging Amalfi lemons go, the Big Mamma Group is a tree branch arching toward the ground. It is a gold-rimmed Burgundy glass full of valpolicella spilling over onto a leopard print rug to the sound of Ranieri and Celentano.

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