John Galliano has announced he is stepping down as creative director from Maison Margiela after a decade at the label.
In a statement on Instagram, the fashion tycoon said he was saying “goodbye” to the French fashion house, leaving his next move up for debate stating, “The rumours… Everyone wants to know […] When the time is right, all will be revealed.”
Galliano, 64, joined Margiela as creative director in 2014, three years after leaving Dior, and enjoyed huge success.
His final collection received critical acclaim, with fashion magazine Dazed noting that it “captured the public’s imagination with its broken marionette looks and Pat McGrath’s glassy, porcelain make-up”.
The collection was subsequently picked up by a number of celebrity clients, with customs made for the likes of Ariana Grande, Kim Kardashian and Zendaya at the 2024 Met Gala.
The 2024 Artisanal collection was inspired by the book The Garden of Time by English novelist J.G Ballard, which drew upon quintessentially Galliano themes of ethereal and whimsical beauty.
Galliano’s influence at Margiela has been colossal. According to OTB Group, who own Margiela alongside Diesel and Jil Sander, the sales for the French label grew 23 per cent in 2023. Similarly, sales grew 24 per cent in the 2021-2022 period under Galliano’s direction.
Galliano also made headlines during awards season, when Miley Cyrus wore a gold safety pin Margiela dress to the 2024 Grammy Awards, when she won Best Pop Solo Performance for her track ‘Flowers’.
The 32-year-old singer completed the look with yellow velour Tabi pumps, created by Christian Louboutin for Maison Margiela.
Galliano has also made his mark on menswear during his time at the label, drawing huge media attention for the rapper Bad Bunny’s outfit at the 2024 Met Gala.
The artist wore a midnight blue smoking jacket with white red exposed thread and matching trousers with a red ribbon lampasse.
The 30-year-old rapper finished the look with a wool flower bouquet, bouffant beret and custom made ‘Tabi’ boots. Galliano is known for blending feminine and masculine styles within his ensembles.
Similar looks were seen on red carpet premieres, by actors such as Eddie Redmayne when he wore a deconstructed Margiela suit at the New York opening night of The Good Nurse.
An enduring example of Galliano’s impact is the revival of the infamous ‘Tabi’, the iconic Margiela shoe originally launched in 1988, which has become ubiquitous within Gen Z street style.
The shoe even became the subject of a viral story on TikTok, in which a New York man stole a pair after a date. The story has accumulated 26.5 million posts that mention “Tinder Tabi thief” on the platform.
Galliano is known for creating a story behind his clothes, briefing his models on the tale behind their looks before they walk the runway.
He has been at the centre of the fashion industry since the 1990s, becoming a mainstream name when he collaborated with Kylie Minogue for her costumes on the 1991 ‘Let’s Get to It’ tour.
In 1995, Galliano joined Givenchy but after only a year at the helm, moved to Dior and was succeeded by Lee ‘Alexander’ McQueen. Whilst at Dior, Galliano designed the iconic yellow chinoiserie chartreuse gown worn by Nicole Kidman for the 1997 Oscars.
The Daily Telegraph heralded the look as “the most memorable Oscars red carpet dresses of all time” and said the dress “changed the course of red carpet fashion”.
Galliano was fired from Dior in 2011 after a video resurfaced of him making antisemitic remarks. He later joined Oscar de la Renta in 2013 for a temporary residency.
In June 2013, Galliano’s first filmed interview since his dismissal from Dior was broadcast where he stated, “I am able to create. I am ready to create… [and] I hope through my atonement I’ll be given a second chance”.
In 2014, it was announced that Galliano was Maison Margiela’s new creative director.
In 2018, he announced that he would stop using fur in his collections, crediting a meeting with Penélope Cruz and PETA’s Dan Mathews as his inspiration.
Whilst Galliano’s next moves are currently unknown, his triumphant impact at Maison Margiela leaves fashion houses fighting for his favour. “For now,” Galliano says, “I take this time to express my immense gratitude.”
