The main inspiration for this dish is the Swansea breakfast at Bara, a much-hyped and nationally famous Welsh-inspired cafe in Peckham, south London.
The way that an unusual mix of cockles, bacon, leeks, eggs and laverbread has been embraced by a cool crowd shows that nostalgic British and Irish dishes are being reinvented and reappraised for a new generation by creative young chefs up and down the land.
