Steadily thrilling: This is the first sit-down restaurant from the hit grab-and-go operation
(Picture: Matt Writtle)On a recent weekday lunchtime, Three Uncles in Brixton Village was causing quite the stir. Expectant hordes swarmed outside this rammed Cantonese roasting meat restaurant’s little blue-liveried double unit. Harried staff fielded repeated questions about how long they thought the wait would be. And a few committed souls had taken to practically flinging themselves at vacated tables like human beach towels hurled at the last sun-lounger.
But there was a flipside. “£10 for char siu?!” said one guy, wrinkling his nose in disbelief as he glanced up at the menu, before turning quickly. An East Asian mum at the table beside mine — out for lunch with her tween daughter — looked at the roast duck, the dim sum and, yes, the (punchily but fairly priced) char siu and rice plate, and laughed. “We could have just gone to Chinatown,” she said, almost absent-mindedly.
