
I was at a Dorset campsite with my family at the weekend, communing with nature in the confusing modern manner that also tends to involve solar panel showers, sourdough pizza vans and armfuls of dormant devices ferried to reception so that they can be charged. Which, I suppose, is another way of saying that when the Thomas Straker controversy hit — you know, the still-raging online fallout over a chef’s picture of his homogeneously white, all-male brigade and the lamentably huffy, tin-eared response he initially gave when he was called out about it — I was blissfully phoneless and oblivious.
I did catch his second response yesterday, where he apologised, and spoke of being “committed to ensuring diversity in my restaurants”. It was a welcome follow-up.