New home: The Flygerians, now at the cafe at Peckham Palms
(Picture: Adrian Lourie)There are times in this job when I walk into a new place and know, fairly quickly, that I probably won’t commit a word of it to print. Sometimes it is because what’s on offer is decent but thin; occasionally, it’s because the experience occupied some greige interzone of blandness that is neither excellent nor terrible enough to be especially interesting. But at The Flygerians — the new incarnation of sibling British-Nigerian founders Jess and Jo Edun’s roving Peckham restaurant — that Spidey tingle of slight apprehension was harder to diagnose.
The menu was a very short affair, on grease-spotted crinkled paper. Food seemed to be mostly served in takeaway boxes, prepared by a lone female server/bartender/chef in a tiny, basic kitchen. The playlist of Afrobeats bangers on a little Bluetooth speaker kept sputtering out. Even allowing for these times of staffing crisis it seemed, in the nicest way possible, that there wasn’t much fully-fledged restaurant here to actually dig into.
