It is not often that I find myself contriving multiple reasons why I shouldn’t review a restaurant. But that was the case with Kokum, a new, contemporary Indian in East Dulwich with an unexpectedly illustrious pedigree and a growing cult of fervent, spice-drunk devotees across message boards and primary school WhatsApp groups.
Partly, my reticence stemmed from the fact that it hadn’t been long since I visited a neighbourhood success story nearby (Evi’s). Partly it was an uncanny conceptual similarity to another south London rave of mine (Kachori). But mostly, it was the nagging question of just how notable yet another Punjabi-inflected curry house could really be.
