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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
Jimi Famurewa

Jimi Famurewa reviews Juliets Café and Bar: Masterful cooking makes this spin-off a secret worth sharing

Showcase of skill: Juliets Café and Bar

(Picture: Matt Writtle)

Juliets Quality Foods has long felt like the one that got away. In the jittery, Wuhan-watching weeks of late February 2020, I nipped into this Tooting café for a pretty good lunch — of swooping folded eggs, and a vast cracked frisbee of Anzac biscuit — that would, in theory, form the basis of a break-glass-in-case-of-emergency review, should this virus thing inconvenience us all for the predicted handful of weeks.

You know how the rest played out. The resulting column, alongside all those cruise ship holiday guides, never ran. Which meant my steady appreciation for this place felt like a sort of burning, undeclared crush. And so, when I planned a trip to Juliets Café and Bar — the spin-off opening from the same team, within Clapham gallery Studio Voltaire — I expected another pleasant brunch and a bit of closure. What I didn’t expect was a fully fledged, wildly ambitious restaurant that may be one of my favourite new spots in the capital.

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