Where is your favourite destination and why?
The Lake District. It stems from my childhood, reading Beatrix Potter’s Peter Rabbit, and as I got older, Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons.
As my family and I spent time on Coniston Water and Lake Windermere, it was almost like we were living the stories in real life. I’d have visions of having my own “Timmy” — the dog in the Famous Five — and imagined that we could go on adventures together. I first went when I was six months old.
But as a family, there’s a connection to the Lake District dating back generations. My great-great-grandfather on my father’s side lived in Yorkshire and so for him and his family it was somewhere to go nearby. Every school holiday we would stay anywhere from a weekend to a week there, in sun or snow or rain, and because there was no electricity in the family cottage it was a real adventure — hiking in the mountains and playing in the Lakes.
When was the last time you went and who did you go with?
Last week. Just overnight. I take a lot of pleasure in going up and taking my dogs and going for a hike and coming back. It doesn’t necessarily have to be for a long time. It’s somewhere I can go to unwind and escape. It’s a four-hour drive so it’s far but equally still within reach.
Do you have a lasting memory of the Lake District?
There was a point at which I was in a very bad place, and I disappeared for a few days, and went to seek solace in the snowy Cumbrian mountains. I went up with the dogs and I had a thermos flask of soup, some cheese and a flapjack. There was nobody about, it was silent, bar the distant bleats of a herd of sheep. I got to the top and I cried; I shouted; I unleashed so many emotions. And I felt like there was this mountain of mental health struggles; depression and anxiety that I was finally, maybe, beginning to get to grips with and take control of. There was also this feeling of pleasure of being up there with the dogs and seeing them excited and happy to do whatever I wanted to do. I realised there was this potential light at the end of the tunnel.
I got to the top of the mountain and I cried; I shouted; I unleashed so many emotions
My dog Ella was the catalyst for going. I’d had a restless night’s sleep (I wasn’t sleeping at the time anyway). I got up in an agitated state and she walked in with my walking boot which she rarely did — it was funny as it was a bit too big for her to carry and she was tripping up over the laces. But I took it as a sign — so I drove up that morning, in the early hours, listening to Stephen Fry’s reading of Harry Potter. I was listening to a chapter about Dementors and I felt that my depression was like the equivalent of a Dementor. But the way you overcome a Dementor is that you have to think of something happy. For me, it was climbing a mountain in the Lake District that was able to push that cloud away. It was a very symbolic journey for me.
When is your favourite time to visit?
Spring, by far. The Pantone colours of the Lakes are extraordinary, and spring is when everything starts to blossom and go green, as it is emerging from winter. It reminds me a lot of the paintings and drawings that Beatrix Potter did, such as the Dormouse that is waking up from hibernation. It feels like everything is coming alive again. It’s quite a dramatic but beautiful light that falls over the Lakes. Beautiful.
What is the one unmissable thing you recommend doing?
Almost every year I’ve done the Coniston Old Man route. Or I believe it’s really called The Old Man of Coniston. On a clear day you can see all the other major peaks in the Lake District. You can see the sea, Helvellyn, the Langdale Pikes and Scafell Pike— which is the tallest mountain in England. I was four when I first climbed it and I look forward to the day I can take my son Inigo up it. He’s just turned one, so a couple of years to go, but he’s almost walking.
Where is the best place to stay?
In the past we’ve rented a boat on Lake Windermere and slept there the night. We’ve also stayed in campsites in the area, and walked between sites. And there are some stunning hotels if you want the luxury side to it. I stayed at Langdale Chase when I was about 11. But I prefer the more adventurous outings.
What’s your favourite pub in the Lakes?
There’s a couple. The Old Dungeon Ghyll starts the walk to Scafell and it serves a soup of the day. I’ve had a wonderful pea and ham one. It’s such a rewarding pub because you’ve just climbed the highest mountain in England, so that first meal you have is such a treat! Everyone in the pub is there in their walking boots. Then the more restaurant-y pub I’d recommend is The Drunken Duck Inn, which is Michelin star-worthy. I like to eat things like offal and devilled kidneys. If I eat out, I don’t like to eat what I have at home.
What would you do if you had only 24 hours there?
I would climb The Old Man of Coniston. I would go for a swim. I would have a flask of soup or broth and homemade sandwiches in my rucksack, and treats for the dogs. We would go off with a few poo bags. We would set off at 9 o’clock in the morning and not come back until six at night. We’d visit the pub on the way back then sit in front of the fire. I think that’s much more calming and relaxing than watching the TV — I can stare at a fire for hours.
What is your top wellness tip for the area?
Reaching the summit of any of the peaks is really special. It gives you a feeling of accomplishment — it’s not just a treat for your eyes but your body as well, with the endorphins running through it. I keep my phone switched off. The walks are challenging but that’s the wonderful thing at the end. It’s good for the soul to reach a summit.
Where do you feel most relaxed?
When I take a cold swim, it’s a fantastic feeling. I like to go somewhere you can swim naked — off the beaten track, away from the main footpath.
What do you recommend bringing home as a souvenir?
I’ve taken quite a bit back! I have a small flock of Herdwick sheep at my farm in West Berkshire. And I always buy Kendal Mint Cake. I have it stashed away in the glove box and I’ll find a little bar afterwards in my rucksack.
What’s your packing essential?
My walking boots. I have different boots but my Diemme pair are my favourite for everyday hiking in the Lakes.
Is there a song that reminds you of the Lakes?
The Quartermaster’s Store. As a family we used to sing it on walks. It’s like a Boy Scouts song. It’s quite fun taking it in turns to add parts. There’s no beginning or end, it can just go on and on and on.
What’s your dress code for the Lakes?
A pair of shorts and long boots are my go to. And a raincoat and a cap.
Is there a building you would like to live in?
I love the stone cottages. You often see buildings which used to be slate mines or copper mines, perched up high in the mountains — some of them now don’t have rooms. But for me, four walls are restricting if you’re in the Lake District, unless you’re cosied up by the fire!
Where do you go on holiday without your dogs?
A country with a hot climate is where I wouldn’t take the dogs. My wife and I’s absolute favourite type of holiday is sailing. Our last trip was in Greece.
Meet Ella: the dog who saved my life by James Middleton is out now (Radar)
As told to Hayley Spencer
