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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
Lifestyle
Hannah Marriott

‘It’s become a nepo baby sport’: how secondhand fashion got so expensive

A woman with blonde curly hair pushes a shopping cart between rows of hanging clothes in a thrift store
A fashion consultant shops at a Goodwill in Los Angeles. Goodwill, North America’s largest thrift chain with 3,400 stores, announced a record $7bn in revenue last year. Photograph: MediaNews Group/Los Angeles Daily News/Getty Images

Vintage boutique owner Janelle Best has been rummaging in thrift shop bins since the 90s. When she started, she says, there was a stigma about it. “It was either you were a freak, or you were poor – and I was a freak.”

At first, she did it to source stage outfits while playing in psych-rock bands. Then, in 2005, she started “casually reselling” on eBay. Ten years later she was trading as Desert Stars Vintage at street markets, and by 2023 she had opened a showroom specializing in upmarket silk dresses in her Williamsburg apartment. Even just a few years ago, she says, she still put in the hours at places like Goodwill. The bins, she says, “were a field day. There were so many fucking bangers.” And then, thrifting became a social media craze, she says, “and the hell gates of high school students flooded in. Twelve people to each bin. Everyone fighting. Suddenly everyone’s a reseller, and instead of these kids intuitively knowing what’s good, they’re on their phones trying to figure out if it’s valuable.”

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