It would be a stretch to say that Mudgee is well known for its rieslings.
Red wines and Mediterranean varieties, absolutely. But riesling? Not really, not like Canberra and Orange anyway.
And yet one Mudgee operation can lay claim to being the top riesling producer in NSW, full stop.
Just a couple of weeks back Robert Stein winery produced the top riesling at the prestigious Sydney Royal Wine Show for the fourth time in six years, this time with its 2024 Dry Riesling.
There's not a winery in the country that wouldn't be thrilled with that record.
But that's only part of the story. It was one of three riesling trophies they collected on the day, also picking up Best NSW Wine and Best Current Vintage White - both with different wines.
It's a remarkable strike rate.
Winemaker and owner Jacob Stein admits bulging trophy cabinet has probably exceeded expectations.
"But it probably shouldn't surprise people," he said.
"We've been winning national and international awards for 16 years now. We'd like to think it is becoming clear to people that it's no fluke."
The riesling variety is especially significant to the winemaking family. Six generations back, Jacob's ancestor Johann Stein emigrated from Germany, bringing with him the first cuttings of Rhine Riesling to survive in Australia.
"Our history with growing riesling actually dates to 1838 when our forebears established vines at Macarthur's Camden Park Vineyard. If only they could see how far we've come."
Stein names climate and vineyard site as the keys to their success.
"People think Mudgee would be too hot for riesling but that's not right," he said.
"I think they're perfect conditions. We're at 600m altitude, and four degrees cooler than Clare, which makes it perfect for acid retention which is so important with riesling - we never have to play around with the acid.
"We have 16 hectares of vines now with the oldest planted in 1976 - so they're approaching 50 years old.
"We have also implemented a massive sustainable and regenerative approach across the whole vineyard. Things like cover crops and compost, really trying to look after soil.
"Over the last 10 years we've seen our vineyard flourish with superior fruit expression and that's showing through with our show results."
Generally Stein riesling is medium- to full-bodied, with flavours hovering around citrus peel, lemon rind and granny smith apple, with tangy astringency.
While they are clean and penetrating as youngsters, they have great ageing potential.
"Every year is different. Each vintage we're just trying to express what our vineyard gives us."
With Robert Stein embracing organic principles, they have recently started to export to China and production is now well over 20,000 cases annually - a figure that's only likely to grow.
"It's an exciting time for us. My family have been here nearly 50 years with these vines. I'm third generation and it seems like we're just hitting our straps."
WINE REVIEWS by RICK ALLEN
A BRIGHT FUTURE
Robert Stein Dry Riesling, 2024
$40
From a cooler year this was named Best Current Vintage White at the Sydney Royal. It's tight and steely, clearly with a very long life ahead of it. Tightly wound, there are penetrating flavours of lime and Granny Smith apple, almost laser-like in their precision, with loads of bright acid. If citrussy sharpness is your thing, jump in now. But time is clearly on your side.
BANG FOR YOUR BUCK
Mayfield Three Boys Cabernet Blend, 2023
$30
This is new to the Mayfield range - a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75 per cent), Merlot (15 per cent) and Cabernet Franc (10 per cent). This was a cooler vintage in Orange but they've achieved good ripeness in this soft, bang-for-your-buck red that is made for immediate drinking. Violets, cherries, raspberry and leafy blueberry. Good option for the barbecue.
THE X FACTOR
Brokenwood Vegas Block Shiraz, 2022
$75
Vegas is a block within the prized Graveyard vineyard in central Pokolbin, so no surprise this is highly impressive. Medium bodied, you'll be richly rewarded if you wait, but it has a lot going for it now. Red cherry, blackberry, aniseed, chocolate, mint, herbs and a long, drawn out savoury finish. Serious oomph, but in such a velvety package.
