When Sabyasachi Mukherjee sets the stage, nobody dares step out of line. Not the 250-odd guests attending his high jewellery showcase at The Oberoi, Delhi, in ‘strictly black’, not the sommelier instructed to pour superb Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and not celebrity wedding designer Devika Narain, who hand-picked the reddest apples for his 24 ft table laden with stunning antiques and nibbles like caviar, chocolate cake and cranberry chicken liver pate. “I call his tables giant black holes because they take so much,” she laughs when we exchange notes a few days later.
The maximalist designer known for his single-minded focus on building a brand timed his first high jewellery show in the country as a fitting end to a year that saw many highs, including the launch of his emporium near Horniman Circle in Mumbai, and his Animal Ball presentation at London’s Lancaster House. Among the creations that impressed at the latter was a necklace featuring a 109.95-carat Zambian emerald and a pair of shola masks fashioned for King Charles III and Queen Camilla. Clearly, with the backing of Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd — ABFRL now holds a 51% stake in Sabyasachi Calcutta — longevity is the ultimate goal. Sabyasachi Calcutta posted a turnover of ₹229.42 crore in FY22, which rose to ₹343.86 crore in FY23 (ABFRL’s annual report). The cultural phenomenon that is the Sabyasachi bride continues but following the recent collaboration with eyewear company Morgenthal Frederics, one expects announcements in categories like cosmetics and interiors soon.
